Eden Valley Dry Riesling? Cool! (#WorldWineTravel)

As a former East Coaster, I have a soft spot in my heart for cool-climate Riesling – in particular, the crisp Riesling produced in the New York Finger Lakes region.

From my first whiff of the 2020 Pewsey Vale Dry Riesling from South Australia’s Eden Valley, I was transported to the rolling hills, gorges and cavernous lakes of “upstate” New York. There are differences between these two regions, of course, which I will outline in this post, but the experience of tasting this Australian wine opened the floodgates to pleasant memories of past visits to the Finger Lakes.

The World Wine Travel bloggers (#WorldWineTravel) are focusing on southern Australia this month for their Twitter chat on Saturday, 3/26, starting at 8 am PT/11 am ET. You can find us and join the conversation by following the hashtag. For an excellent overview of South Australia, check out this post by Lynn, our host.

Single vineyard, single varietal

Talk about focus: Pewsey Vale does Riesling, and only Riesling, from one enclosed vineyard. It was the first and remains one of the only wineries in Australia to work by this one-grape, one-vineyard philosophy for production of its wines. First planted in 1847 by Englishman Joseph Gilbert, the vineyard has some of the earliest vines planted in the region.  (Source: wine-searcher)

In the world-renowned Barossa wine region, one of six growing areas in South Australia, the warm Barossa Valley and the cool-climate Eden Valley exist side by side. Altitude is the primary factor in producing Eden Valley Riesling grapes. Higher elevations mean cooler temperatures and a ripening period that lasts well into the fall. With an average altitude of nearly 1,640 feet in elevation, Pewsey Vale Vineyard sits 820 feet above the Barossa Valley floor.

“Pewsey Vale is not an easy vineyard to manage – but we wouldn’t want it any other way.”

Pewsey Vale website

High altitude, rocky outcrops and a “finicky micro-climate” characterize the vineyard and keep vineyard manager Brooke Howell and winemaker Louisa Rose, both women, busy year-round on managing each block according to its specific needs.

Soil is another critical factor contributing to the profile of Pewsey Vale Riesling. Millions of years ago, a river ran through the site and washed away the top soils, exposing minerals and sand perfect for Riesling grapes. (Source: wine-searcher)

The winery’s “Contours” block received formal organic certification in 2013.

Comparisons abound

I’ve written extensively about the Finger Lakes as this wine region was easily within reach of my Pennsylvania home. To find these posts, simply search this site for “Finger Lakes.”

Finger Lakes terroir is different from what you find in the Eden Valley. In the Finger Lakes, glaciers carved out the region’s deep freshwater lakes and left soil deposits of limestone, shale, gravel and silt. The lakes have a profound effect on the grapes. During winter, cold air drains away from the sloping vineyards to the lakes. In spring, cool air coats the vines and delays the start of the growing season until the weather warms up. Warm lake water in the fall prevents early frosts and extends the growing season. (Source: Finger Lakes Wine Alliance)

While some people don’t care for the terpenes responsible for Riesling’s frequently petrol nose, I’ve always been drawn to that aroma and to the bracing acidity of this grape when grown in cool-climate wine regions. That said, the Finger Lakes region has a number of microclimates, including one on the east side of Lake Seneca dubbed the “Banana Belt.” Here, the temperatures are slightly warmer than elsewhere in the region and Riesling can develop tropical aromas.

The wine: 2020 Pewsey Vale Dry Riesling, Eden Valley
100% Riesling

My tasting notes: Straw in color with a greenish hue. Aromatic nose of lemon-lime, grapefruit, white flowers and light, characteristic petrol. Medium+ acidity on the palate with lemon and grapefruit upfront, followed by a touch of minerality, wet stone and lemon peel. The spouse got some yeastiness on the palate, too. I wasn’t able to find a spec sheet on this wine or details on how it was produced. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 12.5%. Price: $17.

My pairings: We haven’t opened a white wine or a Riesling in a while, so the spouse headed to Northern Fish for a suitable pairing. With fresh-caught, local rockfish on the menu but not much time, I quickly pat-dried the fish, sprinkled with salt and pepper, and flash-fried on medium heat: first in olive oil for three minutes; then, after flipping, adding a couple of tablespoons butter and dried thyme. I served the fish over Israeli couscous with a squeeze of lemon and sprinkle of dried parsley. Also on the menu was an easy kale salad. Here are the instructions:

• Remove the stems and chop several sprigs (3 or 4) kale. Massage with olive oil to soften.
• Add one finely chopped apple, a handful of chopped walnuts, a handful of dried cranberries and ¼ cup feta cheese. You can add anything else you have on hand, such as cannelloni or black beans.
• Combine and add the dressing: Equal parts olive oil and squeezed lemon (2 tbsp. of both to start), 1 tsp. Dijon mustard, a sprinkle of red pepper, one finely diced or pressed garlic, sea salt and ground black pepper to taste.

On Day 2, we enjoyed the leftover rockfish in tacos. Everything was delicious with this bright, beautiful Riesling!

There’s much more to read about South Australia wines in these posts:

• Crushed Grape Chronicles (Robin) discusses “Jim Barry Wines – 3 Generations making Clare Valley Riesling”
• A Day In The Life On The Farm (Wendy) pairs “South Australian Chardonnay with Pesto Bruschetta Chicken”
• Culinary Adventures with Camilla (Camilla) shares “Asparagus-Leek Velouté + Naturalis Sauvignon Blanc 2020”
• Enofylz Wine Blog (Martin) digs into “Pewsey Vale – Eden Valley’s Original Riesling Monopole”
• AdVINEtures (Chris & Allison) is exploring “South Australia Riesling”
• My Full Wine Glass (Linda) discusses “Eden Valley Dry Riesling? Cool!”
• Wine Predator (Gwendolyn) shares “Eight at the Gate: Sustainable Chardonnay In Wrattonbully, South Australia”
• Savor the Harvest (Lynn) discusses “Paxton Wines – Biodynamic Pioneer in South Australia”
• Food Wine Click! (Jeff) shares “Eden Valley Shines Among South Australia Whites“
• Wineivore (Deanna) shares “Brash Higgins Zibbibo Nautral Wine + Sashimi Plate”
• Our Good Life (Terri) tells us about “Tait Family Wines and a Family Tradition Meal”