After opening a handful of robust California wines for #MerlotMe month, it was back to my home state of Washington for two by Walla Walla producer L’Ecole No. 41.
If you were tasting these wines blind, you might not guess they’re related. These two are like second cousins or first cousins, once removed. Aside from growing up in the same state and tracing their lineage to a couple of common ancestors, they have little in common. One is a well-rounded, mellow Columbia Valley red; the other is tense, complex Walla Walla through and through.
What they do share is that characteristic Washington acidity and juicy, ripe fruit – a delicious balance that owes itself to the dry, sunny conditions east of the Cascades and a mix of volcanic and glacial soils. Both wines also benefit from a generous helping of Cabernet Franc in their makeup. Cab Franc contributes pretty rose and violet aromas to these Merlot blends.
The Walla Walla Valley in southeastern Washington is where L’Ecole makes its home. One of the state’s first family-owned wineries, L’Ecole is housed in the historic Frenchtown School just west of Walla Walla. Frenchtown derives its name from the many French Canadians who settled the valley during the early 1800s. The name L’Ecole means “the school” in French, and 41 refers to the site’s district number during the early days of vineyards and winemaking in this region.
Walla Walla is mainly a red valley – 95% of vineyards are planted to red varieties. Merlot is the third most planted grape in Walla Walla after Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Statewide, Merlot is in second place with Cab Sauv leading the pack. L’Ecole harvests 30% of its red grapes from two estate-owned vineyards – Seven Hills and Ferguson – and sources its remaining grapes from other Walla Walla and Columbia Valley growers.
Please note that while the wines for these posts were provided, opinions are my own.
2018 L’Ecole No. 41 Merlot, Columbia Valley
80% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot
Known as L’Ecole’s Heritage Collection Merlot, this Columbia Valley wine includes 60% fruit grown in the Seven Hills, Ferguson and Pepper Bridge vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley AVA, as well as grapes from the Candy Mountain AVA, the new White Bluffs AVA and the well-regarded Klipsun Vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA.
Grapes were hand harvested and fermented in stainless steel. Wine was racked to small oak barrels, 30% new, and aged over 18 months. At 5,300 cases, the Columbia Valley Merlot is one of the most broadly distributed wines in L’Ecole’s portfolio.
My tasting notes: Deep ruby in color. Nose is bright and full of cherry and black cherry fruit with a touch of earth, smoke and hint of rose. Palate boasts plum, fennel, baking spice and an herby quality on a longish finish, with vanilla and pepper at the end. Smooth tannins. Alcohol: 14.5%. Price: $25.
2018 L’Ecole No. 41 Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley
84% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon
This wine is produced from a 50/50 blend of grapes from the producer’s two estate vineyards, both of them certified sustainable and certified salmon safe:
- Seven Hills is a warm parcel consisting of wind-blown loess, a super-fine, pulverized granite soil that derives from ancient glacial activity and has the feel of talc. Grapes from this vineyard tend to produce elegant, silky and structured wines.
- Ferguson Vineyards, which is adjacent to Seven Hills, sits at an elevation of 1,450 feet on an iron-rich outcropping of fractured basalt (black volcanic soil) that is full of minerals. Vines have to weave themselves through the fractured rock to take root. We’re talking plenty of stress and that leads to wines with big, bold tannins.
Grapes were hand harvested ripe and fermented in stainless steel. Wine was racked to small French oak barrels, 35% new, and aged over 18 months. At 1,070 cases, this premium Merlot is only available in L’Ecole’s tasting room and in restaurants.
My tasting notes: Deep ruby in color. Black fruit (black cherry and blackberry) on the nose with red licorice, cedar shavings and a hint of violet. Mouth-watering, high-acid on the palate upfront, with rich blackberry and plum notes and silky, mouth-coating tannin. Lingering minerality on a long finish. Alcohol: 14.5%. Price: $37.
It was fun to taste and compare these two wines side by side. Many thanks to L’Ecole for its ongoing partnership with a group of wine bloggers. But, you ask, which one did I like better?
The Columbia Valley Merlot is more accessible right now than its Walla Walla cousin. It was an easygoing pairing partner for Pacific Northwest pan-fried salmon and mushrooms (pictured) and, a few days later, with spaghetti squash and meatballs in tomato sauce.
The Walla Walla Merlot overpowered these dishes somewhat. This powerful Merlot is capable of aging for a few years. Over time, the wine’s built-in elegance and its brilliant acidity, rich dark fruit and minerality will outshine other wines. I’d be willing to put money on it.
Check out these other posts for more about L’Ecole wines: