White wines from the heart of Central Italy (#ItalianFWT)

Let’s play a game called “Say the first word that pops into your mind when you hear…”

Ready? Central Italy. Tuscany, right? What about Umbria?

While Tuscany grabs the limelight, neighboring Umbria hangs back in the shadows. But here’s a good reason to get to know landlocked Umbria: Orvieto white wines.

The Italian Food, Wine and Travel bloggers are exploring Orvieto wines on Twitter this Saturday, 5/7, starting at 8 am PT/11 am ET. You’re invited to join in the fun of discovery by following the #ItalianFWT hashtag.

Thanks to Jennifer of Vino Travels and the Consorzio Tutela Vini di Orvieto, many of the bloggers in our group received samples of Orvieto white wines for this event as well as a highly informative, coffee table-style book. Jennifer wrote about these wines last year after attending a virtual tasting. Check out her post for details.

Please note that while the wines for this post were provided, opinions are my own.

The rise and fall and rise of Orvieto winemaking

Pliny the Younger, a Roman historian, called Umbria “the most ancient nation in Italy.” The word for wine in Italy, vino, comes from the Umbrian word vinu (which is itself derived from the Mycenean term used during the second millennium BCE). Yes, Umbria is that old.

Winemaking in Orvieto goes way back, too, to the city’s origins during the Etruscan period, about 3,000 years ago. Around the third century BCE, the Romans took over and after Roman times, winemaking fell into decline.

Monks were responsible for reestablishing winemaking in Orvieto during medieval times. As in many Italian towns, grape growing occupied almost 50% of the urban area, a sort of “closed-off field” with a gate. Winemaking declined again for centuries until 1860, when it was unified under the Kingdom of Italy. Later in the 19^th century, the region suffered from the phylloxera epidemic that swept European vineyards.

The modern winemaking era in Orvieto began in the 1930s, but really gained steam during the 1970s and ‘80s.   

Key facts to know about this off-the-radar wine region:

• The city of Orvieto is located in the southwestern part of Umbria, high on a hillside made of tufo, a light, porous rock formed by the consolidation of volcanic ash. The vineyards that surround it are mainly hilly.
• Orvieto DOC (Denominazione Originale Controllata) spans both Umbria and the northern part of neighboring Lazio.
• The region offers a variety of microclimates. Vineyards are influenced by nearby Lake Corbara and Lake Bolsena as well as the Paglia and Tevere rivers.
• This area was once covered by an ancient lake that left behind a variety of soils, including sedimentary soils made up on sandstone, clay and sand, alluvial soils and porous volcanic soils. 
• Historically, Orvieto wines were made in an off-dry style, but today are most commonly produced in a dry style. 
• To be labeled as an Orvieto DOC wine, the blend must be comprised of a minimum of 60% Grechetto and/or Trebbiano Toscano (also known as Procanico).
• Wines labeled Orvieto DOC Classico must be entirely from within the Umbria region and the historical area of Orvieto. Those labeled as Orvieto DOC Classico Superiore have a higher alcohol level, lower yields and undergo at least five months of aging.  

Four Orvieto wineries and white wines

Argillae – In the 1980s, the Bonollo family bought its estate on volcanic soils north of Orvieto. They own more than 640 acres today, with 173 acres under vine. Yet, they only produce about 4,000 cases of wine per year right now, a fraction of the estate’s total potential. The remainder is sold in bulk to bottling companies. The 2021 Argillae “Panata” Orvieto DOC Superiore is made from Grechetto with small additions of Procanico and Chardonnay. All wines mature in stainless steel to focus on varietal expression of the various grape varieties.

• My tasting notes: Straw in color. Pear, almond, perfume and a touch of rosewater on the nose. Zingy, high-acidity palate, with stone minerality, pear, almond and grapefruit. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 13%. Average price: $19.

Bigi – Founded by Luigi Bigi in 1880, Bigi is one of the oldest wineries among those that still exist today. Initially, it was located in a former monastery. Then in 1972, when the property was acquired by Antinori, Bigi moved to its current facility in Ponte Giulio. It was sold in 1975 to Winefood, a large company, and again in 1986 to Gruppo Italino Vini. Back then, the company had no vineyards of its own. In 2001, the company acquired over 120 acres that now allow for self-sufficient production. The 2021 Bigi “Vigneto Orricella” Orvieto DOC Classico is made from grapes grown in the hills overlooking Lake Corbara: 40% Trebbiano Toscano and 20% each of Verdello and Grechetto; the remaining 20% is Drupeggio and Malvasia Toscana.

• My tasting notes: Yellow straw in color. Pear and red apple on the nose, with ripe grapefruit and Granny Smith apple on the palate. Softer than the Argillae. Medium+ acidity. Medium finish. Alcohol: 13%. I was unable to find this wine in the U.S.

Custodi – Custodi is located in Lazio, a neighbor of Umbria. Laura and Chiara Custodi started to make wine in Lazio in 2003. Their father bought the first plot of land in 1965. From about 100 acres of vineyards, they produce and sell almost 6,000 cases of wine. The remaining 20% is sold in bulk to large bottling companies. The 2021 Custodi “Belloro” Orvieto DOC Classico is made from Grechetto, Drupeggio, Verdello and a bit of Chardonnay.

• My tasting notes: Pale straw, almost translucent in color. A fruity nose gives way to a medium-acid, mellow palate with ripe grapefruit. Medium finish. A mild, food-friendly wine. Alcohol: 12.5%. I was unable to find this wine in the U.S.

Decugnano Dei Barbi – The winery was founded by Claudio Barbi in 1973, but wine has been produced at Decugnano for at least eight centuries. In 1212, records show, wine was made for the Church and for local consumption. Today, Claudio has been joined by his son Enzo. They have almost 75 acres of vineyards on sandy and clay soils over 900 feet above sea level. The soils contain fossilized shells, like those found in Chablis, France. The 2019 Decugnano Dei Barbi “Mare Antico” Orvieto DOC Classico Superiore Il Bianco is made from Grechetto, Procanico and Vermentino. I’d love to try their Metodo Classico Brut made from Chardonnay and Pinot Nero!

• My tasting notes: Gold in color. Pear, apple and a hint of almond dominate the nose. Grapefruit and minerality take over on the palate with a hint of almond on the medium+ finish. Medium+ acidity. Alcohol: 13.5%. Average price: $17.

For these central Italian wines, I chose fresh Pacific Northwest rockfish – baked Portuguese style with potatoes, tomatoes and onions with two of the wines the first day, and served in corn tacos topped with cabbage slaw with the other two wines the second day. The high-acid, stone minerality of the Argillae was a bit much for the mild rockfish, but the three other Orvieto whites paired amicably.

Here’s the entire lineup of posts for this month’s Italian Food, Wine and Travel theme:

• Wendy from A Day in the Life on the Farm will be sharing “Umbrian Red Wine Spaghetti and a Book Review 
• Liz at What‘s In That Bottle is wondering “Why Aren’t we all Drinking more Orvieto?” 
• Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles will be writing about “The multifaceted white wine of Umbria” 
• Lynn at Savor the Harvest will be focusing on “Appreciating an Ancient Italian Wine Made For Today’s Palate” 
• Camilla at The Culinary Adventures of Camilla is “Celebrating Spring with Vignole + 2020 Barberani Castagnolo Orvieto Classico Superiore” 
• Lisa at The Wine Chef is pairing “Umbria’s Famous White Wine, Paired With Spiced Pork Tenderloin” 
• Nicole at The Somms Table will be featuring “Easy Springtime Dinners with Orvieto”  
• Pinny at Chinese Food and Wine Pairings is uncovering “Orvieto White Wines – Hidden Treasures From Umbria”  
• Linda at My Full Wine Glass is writing about “White wines from the heart of Central Italy”  
• Susannah at Avvinare will be “Getting reacquainted with an old friend: Orvieto Wines”
• Gwendolyn at Wine Predator is planning to “Discover the Heart of Italy: Orvieto DOC in Umbria”
• Jennifer at Vino Travels, our host, will be highlighting “Orvieto, Italy’s Classic White Wine”