Two wines from French grapes rooted in WA soil (#Winophiles)

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Syrah – “international varieties” like these are so widely grown we may not think about them as native grapes. Yet, they had to start somewhere, and that place is France.

Of the many locations where these native French grapes have put down roots, Washington State seems especially welcoming. Strange, because the terroir (climate, soil, aspect) in dry eastern Washington vineyards shares little in common with the French wine regions these grapes call home. C’est la vie!

In Washington, these French natives soak up the hot summer sun and withstand the brutally cold winters, producing fruity wines with characteristic high acidity. Powerful Bordeaux blends. Savory Syrah. New world for sure, but distinctly Washington, too.

This week, the French Winophiles are exploring French grapes that crossed continents. You’re invited to join us by tuning into the Twitter chat this Saturday, 9/17, starting at 8 am PT/11 am ET. Simply follow the #Winophiles hashtag.

The grapes

Let’s start by briefly introducing the grapes in the two wines I’m sharing today.

Cabernet Sauvignon – Originally from Bordeaux and now grown around the world. Recognized as the leading grape in Left Bank Bordeaux blends. Most planted red grape in Washington.
Merlot – First noted as a distinct variety in Bordeaux. Slightly less intense and tannic, Merlot is the leading grape of Right Bank Bordeaux blends. Second most planted red grape in Washington.
Malbec – A minor player in the blends of its Bordeaux hometown, this grape shines as the “Black Wine of Cahors” in southwestern France. May be most familiar to fans as the flagship red of Argentina.
Cabernet Franc – One of Cabernet Sauvignon’s two parents (the other is Sauvignon Blanc). A blending partner of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the famous reds of Bordeaux.
Petit Verdot – A deeply colored, tannic red grape from Bordeaux. Used sparingly in Bordeaux blends.
Syrah – Native to southern France and the star of northern Rhône wines, this grape has achieved some fame in Australia where it’s called Shiraz. Third most planted red grape in Washington.

The producer

Eight Bells is a nautically themed, Seattle winery with a down home, neighborhood bar kind of vibe. At sea, the eighth bell marks a change in activities. For Eight Bells, that means time to stop what you’re doing and enjoy a glass of wine! Repeat customers are this winery’s bailiwick. Also of note, the winery uses glass stoppers. They say glass is more sustainable than cork because it can be recycled, resanitized and reused.

The winery was established in 2009 by a group of friends who decided to combine their winemaking experience into a singular goal: to shine a light on select Washington state vineyards. But unlike other urban wineries in Washington state, Eight Bells focuses on just two of the most illustrious vineyards – Red Willow and Boushey – and then on specific blocks within each vineyard.

“By knowing the terroir, microclimate and nuances within each block we are able to pick the fruit at the exact ripeness and maturity that we’re looking for. This allows us to produce wines that exhibit the depth, flavors and consistency that are our hallmark.”

Located at the western end of the Yakima Valley, Red Willow Vineyard is one of the oldest and most acclaimed vineyards in the state. The multigenerational Sauer family, an innovative force in Washington wine, is responsible for the first plantings of Syrah and other grapes in the state. I had the privilege of visiting Red Willow and spending time with Mike Sauer and son Jonathan in the spring of 2021. You can read about my visit here.

The wines

2016 Eight Bells David’s Block, Red Willow Vineyard, Yakima Valley

67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 10% Malbec, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot

On the Eight Bells site, you can read about the special relationship between Sauer and David Lake, another important figure in Washington wine history. Two of their pioneering practices, field blending and multi-clonal winemaking, are represented in the one-acre David’s Block at Red Willow.

Briefly, field blends are made from different varieties grown together in the same field or vineyard, then picked and fermented at the same time. This ancient method is a way to showcase a vineyard’s unique qualities. The term “multi-clonal” refers to wines made from more than one grape clone. Though clones are copies of the parent grape, each clone has subtle differences. These differences add to the complexity of multi-clonal wines.

My tasting notes: Deep ruby in color with a purplish rim. Fruity aromas of blackberry, black cherry and black currant, with hints of lavender, rosemary and red licorice. Mouthcoating but not grippy. Tangy, thirst-quenching, medium+ acidity, and flavors of ripe, slightly jammy dark berries. Smooth, long finish. Alcohol: 14.4%. Price: $42.

The pairing: Classic beef meatballs ala Betty Crocker in an Oyster mushroom sauce were a tasty match for this powerful, yet integrated Bordeaux blend. Here’s my recipe for the sauce:

Ingredients:
2 tbsp. butter
½ lb. Oyster mushrooms, chopped
¼ cup flour
2 cups chilled chicken or vegetable broth
Baby spinach

Instructions:
Melt butter in a large saucepan.
Cook and stir mushrooms over medium high heat for 5 minutes.
Sprinkle flour over mushrooms. Stir and cook for 5 minutes.
Stir in ½ cup of the broth for 5 minutes.
Add remainder of broth. Stir and cook for 15-20 minutes.
Stir in a handful or two of spinach until it wilts.

This flavorful dish has the fat and protein to work seamlessly with the next wine, too.

2016 Eight Bells Eight Clones Syrah, Red Willow Vineyard, Yakima Valley

94% Syrah with a splash (3% each) of Grenache and Viognier

In 1986, with David Lake’s encouragement, Sauer planted Washington state’s first Syrah on a hillside just north of their famous Chapel Block. The site reminded Lake of the Hermitage region in the northern Rhône. Sauer later planted an additional block of eight separate clones of Syrah beside this initial block. This is the block that Eight Bells harvests to make their Eight Clones Syrah. You can read more about this storied block here.

We opened this wine for a friends and family Washington Syrah wine tasting event a few weeks ago. You can read about the six Syrah wines we tasted here.

My tasting notes: Dark ruby in color. Aromas of blackberries and black cherries, Douglas Fir trees and a hint of chocolate. Peppery, slightly oaky and jammy on the palate, with medium+ acidity, silky tannins and a long finish. Alcohol: 13.8%. Price: $40.

For all the posts on this month’s #Winophiles theme, check out these blogs: