Two days – that’s all we allotted ourselves in the Columbia Gorge this time around. Plenty of outdoorsy folks and wine enthusiasts would argue two days is too little time to appreciate the scenery, bike or hike, and sample all the Gorge has to offer. True. But like it or not, that’s what we had.
This late March-early April 2022 mini-vacation was the second trip we’d taken to the Gorge since moving to western Washington two years ago. In the fall of 2020, we explored the western half of this 80-mile-long natural wonder flanking both sides of the Washington/Oregon border. Now, we were spending time in the eastern section.
We devoted Day 1 to hiking in The Dalles while gawking at the river views and multi-colored wildflowers bursting out at Horsethief Butte and Crawford Oaks. We spied ravens and rare Lewis’s woodpeckers in the oaks, and Western meadowlarks sang sweetly along the Vista Loop Trail that winds through these stark grasslands. Hillsides are green now and the air redolent of lemon-scented desert parsley. In summer, this semi-arid land will turn brown. Wildfires will threaten to scorch the earth and send smoke wafting over the vineyards and ripening grapes. We felt lucky and grateful to visit in spring.
On Day 2 the plan was to visit one or two wineries. You might ask, “Why not more?” As much as I love wine, I find myself overwhelmed and losing focus when I have more than one or two wineries to visit in a day. I’ve done that – and appreciated the wineries that have opened their tasting room doors to an entourage of a dozen or more wine writers at one time – but to me, less is more.
The winery we most wanted to visit in the Gorge was Syncline, mostly based on what other bloggers have written about it but also for the vineyard and cellar tours included in their Flagship Tasting Experience. The first “seating” (though we hardly sat) was 11:30 a.m. I woke early that day and couldn’t wait to go.
History and land
On arriving at Syncline, Lauren Cullen, wine club and hospitality manager, poured the newly released 2021 rosé and handing over two glasses, escorted us to a wooden table in the winery’s rustic, open garden. Connor Hartman, a tasting experience guide as well as vineyard and cellar assistant, soon joined us and led the way over a dry creek bed lined by Oregon oaks and up a hill into the vineyards and a striking view of Mount Hood across the river.
Co-founders Poppie and James Mantone met during the harvest of 1997 while working together in the cellar at a custom crush house in the Willamette Valley, Oregon. With a degree in microbiology and organic chemistry, James was eager to move from the Midwest to Oregon to pursue his interest in winemaking. After traveling and attending universities, Poppie moved to Oregon from Provincetown, Massachusetts, to get involved in farming and wine production. They married and soon began plans for a vineyard of their own.
They were drawn to the Columbia Gorge American Viticulture Area (AVA) for its wildness and the potential to make southern Rhône-style wines based on Washington varieties. East of the Cascades, Washington is known for hot summers and cold winters, a climate similar to what you find in the Côtes du Rhône. In 2003, the Mantones bought a 32-acre property in Lyle, Washington, for $100,000 and started their adventure.
Now, they cultivate 17 acres of estate vineyards at 600 feet in elevation, grow nine varieties and make 15 different wines. About a third of the under 6,000 cases produced by Syncline annually is made from estate-grown grapes. They source the remainder of grapes from Columbia Valley vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills and Red Mountain AVAs where Syncline has partnerships and is able to choose its preferred picking time – generally early to lock in high acidity.
Poppie is the general manager, while James, the vigneron, regards himself as a “soil farmer.” He’s moving toward biodynamic and organic farming and pushing his partners to do the same. He does little tilling in his vineyards. Rather, he packs organic compost around the base and lets native grasses and weeds grow under the vines to keep the soil in place and allow for fungal symbiosis between the roots. Dry farming is also his goal. Plans call for pulling up irrigation drip lines.
syncline (‘sin-klin)
a trough of stratified rock in which the beds dip toward each
If you’re a grapevine, you have to work hard to produce fruit in the Columbia Gorge AVA.
First, you have to send your roots deep into the volcanic basalt underlying a thin layer of topsoil, only about four to five inches thick. Soils are so poor in the Gorge that you’re likely to get only half the yield of grapevines on more fertile land. But oh, those grapes! They’ll have the bright acidity and purity of fruit that characterizes Washington wines and makes both winemakers and consumers smile.
Working in your favor is the constant wind that whips through the Gorge – an attraction to the wind surfers whose bright sails crisscross the sky above the river on a warm, sunny day. Wind cools the grapes in the hot, dry summer months when the leaves take their afternoon siesta. In the evening, temperatures drop enough for the work of a grapevine to resume.
The wines
On our first visit to the Gorge, in October 2020, we saw for ourselves wildfires ravaged forests on the Oregon side of the river. Fires charred trees up to six feet or more above ground and turned leaves brown. The Washington side of the river was largely spared that year, but wind carried the smoke east.
James wasn’t taking any chances. He made a decision to remove stems from all the 2020 fruit, rather than pressing any grapes whole cluster, to prevent as much smoke taint as possible. As a result, the 2020 wines are more delicate, lighter in style and lower in tannin than previous vintages and meant for drinking young.
Fermentation and aging at Syncline take place in a variety of vessels from neutral, next-to-new French oak barriques, puncheons and uprights to cigar barrels to French concrete cube tanks and a concrete egg. As Connor explains (see photo above), the egg provides natural circulation and keeps lees and sediment suspended, adding to the wine’s complexity. Only the whites go into stainless steel. Syncline opts for all native yeasts and no fining. Wines are hand bottled on site.
Grapes get the royal treatment at this boutique winery, and it’s no wonder production is kept low. Hand-harvested, the grapes go into a gentle membrane press before destemming. Each lot is either foot trod (pigeage à pied), manually punched down or pumped over. Syncline tends to sell out of most vintages quickly, especially as wine club members account for 1,500 cases of sales alone. Distribution is also limited, so it’s best to buy directly from the winery.
2021 Syncline Rosé, Horse Heaven Hills
52% Carignan, 48% Mourvèdre
Grapes are sourced from McKinley Springs Vineyard. All fruit whole-cluster pressed, with no skin contact. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. Alcohol: 12.7%. Retail price: $28.
- My tasting notes: Pale salmon in color. Peach and wild strawberry on the nose; palate is minerally, herby, savory and dry. Crisp, medium+ acidity. Clean, medium+ finish.
2020 Syncline Grenache-Carignan, Columbia Valley
71% Grenache, 29% Carignan
Grapes are sourced from two high-elevation vineyards: McKinley Springs in Horse Heaven Hills (66%) and Boushey in Yakima Valley (34%). Fully de-stemmed into French concrete cube tanks. Each variety is fermented separately. Aged in a mix of neutral French oak puncheons and upright tanks. Alcohol: 14%. Retail price: $55.
- My tasting notes: Bright ruby red with violet flecks. Cherry and a touch of anise dominate the earthy, herby nose. Palate is light-bodied and elegant with medium+ acidity. Cherry and sour cherry flood the mid-palate, ending in an herby, earthy, medium+ finish. Low tannin.
2020 Syncline Subduction Red, Columbia Valley
49% Mourvèdre, 25% Syrah, 25% Carignan, 1% Grenache
Syncline has been making this popular red blend since 2001, and it accounts for about a third of total production. Grapes are sourced from eastern Washington vineyards in Horse Heaven Hills, Yakima Valley and Red Mountain. Percentages of each variety change annually. Fully destemmed and fermented in French concrete cube tanks. Aged in French barriques and puncheons, and oak uprights. Each variety is pressed and fermented separately. Alcohol: 13.6%. Retail price: $30
- My tasting notes: Lipstick red in color. Cherry, perfume and spring parsley on the nose. Palate is herby and savory with little tannin. Medium acidity. Medium finish. Light, accessible and easy to drink with or without food.
2020 Syncline Syrah, Boushey Vineyard, Yakima Valley
100% Syrah
Grapes are sourced from the second oldest Syrah block in Washington state and the oldest block in Boushey Vineyard, the “Grand Cote.” Syncline partners for two acres of this five-acre block at 1,200 feet in elevation. Fully destemmed, grapes for this vintage sat on their skins for less time than in previous years. Fermented and aged in French oak uprights. Pair with light foods and drink now. Alcohol: 13.9%. Retail price: $60.
- My tasting notes: Light ruby in color. Black cherry, blackberry and an earthy blend of grassland herbs on the nose. Palate is herby, delicate and light-bodied, with soft tannin, medium acidity and a medium+ finish.
I adore this place, the people and their wines. What a spectacular article!