Saying ‘hola’ to Mexican Tempranillo and sparkling wine (#winePW)

What? You’ve never heard of Mexican wine? Until this week, neither had I.

Maybe you’ve traveled to Mexico and weren’t aware the country produced wine. The Mexican government doesn’t make it easy for wineries to sell wine in Mexico, says Max Murphy of Tozi Imports, one of the few importers of Mexican wine to the U.S. For wines sold in Mexico, wineries pay 48% in taxes. For exports, they get a break, to 16%, because the government knows they have to transport the wine and pay customs.

For American consumers, it’s good news that these wines are arriving in the States. Based on the two samples I received, these wines are worth getting to know.

Want to learn more? The Wine Pairing Weekend (#winePW) crew will be holding a Twitter chat about Mexican wines this Saturday, 4/9, starting at 8 am PT/11 am ET. You’re welcome to join in the fun by following the hashtag.

Please note that while the wines for this post were provided, opinions are my own.

Brief history of Mexican wine

As Max explains on a recent Zoom virtual tasting, Mexico was once the hub of winemaking in the new world. The Spaniards brought grape cuttings to Mexico 500 years ago and planted vineyards – largely to supply sacramental wine for the spread of missions throughout their conquered lands.

When social reforms swept the country in the late 1800s, Mexican winemaking became more of a secular pursuit. For 100 years, Mexican wine was mass produced and sold inexpensively. This low-quality wine didn’t make it to the U.S.

In the 1980s, Mexico opened its doors to imports. This economic change destroyed the existing winemaking industry but fueled the rise of boutique wineries – small, family-owned and focused on quality.

Winemakers began using modern techniques and producing single-varietal wines instead of blending everything together. Without a regulated, tiered system like the European Union has in place, Mexican winemakers have the freedom to be innovative.

In Mexico, “you have the ability to make whatever you want,” Max says.

‘Extreme’ viticulture

Both wines I tasted hail from the central Mexican highlands of Querétaro, about three hours north/northwest of Mexico City.

Located just south of the 21st parallel, Querétaro is the southernmost wine-producing region in the northern hemisphere. Grapes are planted in this arid land up to 7,000 feet above sea level. High elevation allows grapes to thrive in the hot climate. This region is especially known for its sparkling wines that are made in a style similar to Cava. Grape varieties include Xarel-lo, Parellada, Macabeo, Malbec, Tempranillo, Nebbiolo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

2016 Vinos del Marqués Musica del Marqués Tempranillo
90% Tempranillo, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Grenache

Founded in 2013, Vinos del Marqués is located in El Marqués, Querétaro, at almost 6,000 feet above sea level.

Winemaker Mauricio Rodríguez is considered a rising star in the country; he serves as a consultant to several other Mexican wineries. Vinos del Marqués, his “baby,” is notable for its Nebbiolo, an unusual grape to grow at such a high altitude. Wines include a Nebbiolo/Tempranillo Rosé, Tempranillo, Nebbiolo, Syrah and a Nebbiolo/Syrah reserve wine. Only 2,000 cases of wine are produced annually.

Aged six months in first and second-use French and American oak. Alcohol: 13.2%. Price: $22-25.

My tasting notes: Ruby red in color. Bright red cherry and a hint of tobacco on the nose. Cherry, tobacco and leather on the palate with high acidity and mouth-coating tannin. Medium+ finish.

Pairing suggestions: Couldn’t resist a traditional Taco Tuesday pairing for this Tempranillo: pulled chicken tacos with chili salsa ala Rachael Ray and classic ground beef tacos, topped with shredded cabbage and cheddar cheese, and chopped scallions. Protein, yes! You could use seitan instead of beef and a cheese substitute if going vegan. I’d also recommend grilled meat, roasted veggies or cheesy mushroom dishes.

NV Freixenet México Viña Doña Dolores Brut Gran Reserva
50% Macabeu 50% Xarel-lo

Founded in 1979, Freixenet México is located in Ezequiel Montes, Querétaro, and is a member of the Henkell-Freixenet international family of wineries. The largest winery in Central Mexico, and one of the largest in the country overall, Freixenet México is situated at over 6,500 feet in elevation.

Like most other wineries in the Henkell-Freixenet family, Freixenet México focuses primarily on sparkling wine, which accounts for over 70% of its annual production. Winemaker Luis Raventós, originally from Spain, incorporates classic Cava varieties Xarel-lo and Macabeu, as well as Ugni Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon, to create a variety of sparkling wines.

With an annual production of 225,000 cases of wine, Freixenet México is positioned to provide technical expertise and equipment to the burgeoning wine industry in Central Mexico.

Produced in the traditional method (the one used in Champagne), this bubbly spends 18 to 24 months sur lies. Alcohol: 12%. Price: $15.

My tasting notes: Yellow gold in color. Pear and apricot on the nose as soon as the cork pops and mousse forms in the glass. Palate is bright, not tart, and balanced, with tangerine, ripe grapefruit and a squeeze of lemon. Similar to a Cava, but not as bready. Soft, medium+ finish. Good value for price!

Pairing suggestions: On tasting day, we were dirty and dusty from spring cleaning in the yard all morning and searching for something easy (but delicious) for lunch. So the spouse hopped over to our nearby Whole Foods for salmon/avocado and veggie sushi to accompany this Cava-like bubbly. Yum! This cross-cultural pairing was spot on. Appetizers, soft cheeses, salty olives and anchovies, and any kind of fish would work well, too. And don’t forget dessert!

Here’s the entire lineup of #winePW bloggers exploring Mexican wine this month:

• Wendy from a A Day in the Life on the Farm will share “Mexican Foods and Wines always provide for a Perfect Fiesta”
• Susannah from Avvinare is “Discovering Mexican Wine”
• Jen from Vino Travels is taking “A First Look at Mexican Wines Including Italian Grapes”
• Carlos from Carlos’ Food & Wine is serving up “Mexican wines featuring sparkling wine risotto & grilled hanger steak with mushroom-red wine sauce”
• Camilla from Culinary Adventures with Camilla is sharing “Outside the Pigeon-Hole: Pairing Mexican Wine with Thai Cuisine“
• Gwendolyn from Wine Predator Gwendolyn Alley features Sparkling Wine from Mexico For #TacoTuesday”
• Robin of Crushed Grape Chronicles shares “Mexican Wines – 2 wines from the central Mexican highlands of Querétaro #WinePW“
• Linda from My Full Wine Glass is “Saying ‘hola’ to Mexican Tempranillo and sparkling wine”
• Martin from ENOFLZ Wine Blog will share “Exploring Mexican Wine Beyond Baja”
• Nicole from Somm’s Table is “Sipping Mexican Wines with a Bowl of Birria“
• Liz at What’s in that Bottle posted “Salud a Los Vinos de Mexico!” 
• Terri from Our Good Life pairs “Grassfed Ribeye with Steak Butter and Grilled Oyster Mushrooms Paired with Monte Xanic Cabernet Sauvignon“
• David from Cooking Chat pairs “Roasted Beet Pesto Pasta with Mexican Merlot”