Sampling Chassenay D’Arce bubbles from Champagne’s farthest subregion

Planning a trip to Champagne? Lucky you! What an opportunity to explore one of the world’s most prestigious and storied wine regions.

No doubt you will book a hotel or rental in Reims or maybe Épernay to use as your base of operations for visiting Champagne’s five subregions: Montagne de Reims, the Marne Valley, Côte de Blancs, Côte de Sézanne and the Aube (Côte des Bar).

But when you’ve nearly maxed out your time and budget in central Champagne, will you travel the additional 100 miles southeast to the Aube to visit the Côte des Bar subregion? Have a look on the map – the Aube is like a lonely outpost, far from the rest of Champagne!

The Côte des Bar was treated like the poor stepchild of Champagne for a long time. But now the Côte des Bar is donning its finery and stepping out in the limelight. According to Wine Folly, demand is increasing for wines from this Champagne-but-more-like-Burgundy subregion.

Chassenay D’Arce, a cooperative wine house representing 130 families and three generations of winemakers in the Côte des Bar, is poised for a piece of the action. Already in the French market and 30 other countries, Chassenay D’Arce is gearing up for distribution in the U.S., too.

The Champagne house recently partnered with Cru Selections, a West Coast distributor, to debut four of its wines before an audience of writers and other folks in the trade. It was a little like traveling to Champagne. Well, not really, but I did gain an appreciation for Côte des Bar bubbles!

More on Côte des Bar

As mentioned, most Champagne subregions are centrally located within the Marne département (near Reims and Épernay). The Côte des Bar is the only major region in the Aube. The landscape here is quite different from densely planted, central Champagne. The Côte des Bar boasts rolling lush green hills, valleys, dense forests and over 20 rivers.

Grapevines are planted on steep, mostly south-facing hillsides. The vineyard area has grown by nearly 20% since 2000 and now makes up almost a quarter of the entire Champagne region.

The Côte des Bar has a long history of growing and supplying grapes for Champagne houses in the Marne département. In 1908, these centrally located wine houses tried to push the Aube from its official Champagne designation. The Côte des Bar growers pushed back, but the Aube remained classified as Champagne deuxième zone, or “second Champagne zone,” until 1927.

What makes the Côte des Bar special?

Soils. In the Côte des Bar, soils are Kimmeridgian marl with some Portlandian limestone. These are similar to the soils found in Chablis. This marly blend of clay and limestone translates into high acidity and minerality.

Climate. The climate is mild, both continental and maritime, with summers that are not too dry and winters that are not too cold. The Côte des Bar gets abundant rainfall and a prevailing wind from the Burgundy region. Soils and climate both favor Pinot Noir, which accounts for about 86% of the total vineyard.

Single-varietal wines. The Côte des Bar has a long history of producing single-varietal wines, including 100% Pinot Blanc Champagne wines. Less than 10% of Champagne houses craft wines from Pinot Blanc, an ancestral grape variety. Most rely on the big three: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.

Single-vintage wines. Blended vintages rule in most of Champagne to create consistency. But in the Côte des Bar, producers like Chassenay D’Arce are crafting one or more single-vintage cuvées.

Sustainability. The Côte des Bar is growing its use of organic and biodynamic farming approaches.

Growing sustainably

Founded in 1956 by six pioneers, Chassenay D’Arce has a vineyard area today covering 778 acres over 14 villages along the Arce River.

Through a spirit of cooperation, solidarity and knowledge-sharing, Chassenay D’Arce is working hard to “change people’s minds about wine cooperatives,” says consultant Murielle Claudel. “The work they do is amazing.”

This includes vineyard tasks done by hand, social responsibility and fair practices for both workers and consumers, and certified sustainable approaches.

• In 2019, Chassenay D’Arce launched its first wine made from organically farmed grapes. Currently, 10% of growers (about 19 acres) are certified organic, with plans to double that percentage in six years.

• In 2021, Chassenay D’Arce became the first Champagne house to earn the certified Sustainable Winegrowing label from AFNOR, an independent French standardization association. The Champagne house is committed to protecting biodiversity, reducing and optimizing waste recycling, conserving natural resources (such as fuel and electricity), and promoting eco-design (with, for example, 100% recyclable cases and boxes).

The wines

• Chassenay D’Arce Cuvée Première Brut NV – 62% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay, 1% Pinot Blanc. Emblematic house blend from several harvests, with 28% reserve wines. Spends 3 years in bottle, on the lees. Brut dosage: 8 g/l. Price: $31.50. Yeasty yet accessible, with minerality and freshness.
  Suggested pairing: Thai food
• 2014 Chassenay D’Arce Pinot Blanc Extra Brut Millésime – 100% Pinot Blanc. Spends 8 years in bottle. 2014 was a rainy year in Champagne. Extra brut dosage: 2 g/l. Price: $52.50. Subtle but zingy on the finish. Price: $52.50.
  Suggested pairing: Raw oysters
• 2015 Chassenay D’Arce Cuvée Origine Extra Brut (Organic) – 100% Pinot Noir. Spends 7 years in bottle. By contrast, 2015 was a warm year. Extra brut dosage: 6 g/l. Price: $37.80. Fruity, with berries on the nose and citrus dominating the palate.
  Suggested pairing: Roast chicken
• Chassenay D’Arce Cuvée Rosé Brut NV – 51% Pinot Noir, 31% Chardonnay, 12% Pinot Meunier, 6% Pinot Blanc. Blend from several harvests, with incorporation of 13% red wine. Spends 4 years in bottle. Brut dosage: 9 g/l. Price: $35. Classic, balanced rosé.
  Suggested pairing: Fruit tart

If you’re going to Champagne, do plan a day trip to the Côte des Bar. Check out this other side of the region for yourself!

Sources: Wine Folly, Wine Tourism