Remember Pinot Grigio from the past? By the past, I mean before 2017. Pinot Grigio was that average, not very aromatic white wine offered at cash bars and served at cocktail receptions – a wine to avoid, even if that meant drinking an equally as generic Merlot.
Then, in 2017, winemakers in northeastern Italy got their act together. They cut yields to improve quality and created the Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC Consortium (Consorzio delle Venezie DOC) to replace the Typical Geographical Indication (IGT) designation with a higher-quality Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) covering all of the Triveneto region (Veneto, Trentino and Friuli-Venezia-Giulia).
Delle Venezie DOC is the biggest appellation in Europe. The DOC produces 85% of all Italian Pinot Grigio and 40% of global Pinot Grigio. Within this DOC you’ll find 20 embedded DOCs, each with its own terroir in so big a wine region.
I was delighted to have my mind changed about Pinot Grigio – to be wowed, actually – first by a Zoom interview and tasting of Albino Armani wines hosted by Susannah Gold of Vigneto Communications, and then by a delle Venezie DOC presentation at the Wine Media Conference held in Eugene, Oregon, in early August. Consorzio delle Venezie DOC was a conference sponsor.
Please note that while the wines for this post were provided, opinions are my own.
A name worth knowing
During these presentations, I was reminded that Pinot Grigio is a gray or dusty-red grape made into a white wine. Early ripening and delicate, Pinot Grigio is more finicky to handle than Chardonnay. It needs plenty of water but well-draining soil and a cool climate, like the one found in the Dolomite Mountains of northeast Italy. In warmer regions, wines get flabby from lack of acidity and lose their complexity.
When grown under the right conditions and treated well, the Pinot Grigio grape is capable of producing wines with characteristic white fruit – pear, peach, nectarine. And here’s a little secret: the best Pinot Grigio wines can develop over time.
Albino Armani is one of the largest landowners in Italy, with 750 acres of vineyards, and a family winemaking tradition that goes back 400 years. Armani owns five wineries in the Triveneto, all in “extreme areas” – that is, at high elevations and as cool as possible. At these altitudes, acidity is so high that some percentage of the grapes typically goes through malolactic fermentation to convert harsh malic acid to softer lactic acid. Armani produces its own yeasts and ages all of its Pinot Grigio in stainless steel to preserve freshness.
Since 2019, all Armani vineyards have been certified SQNPI (National Quality System for Integrated Production). This national certification aims to help agricultural ecosystems to monitor and reduce environmental impacts and reduce the use of synthetic chemicals.
Armani wines are available in the U.S. at Total Wine & More. Here are the four I tasted and can recommend:
- 2020 Albino Armani Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC – Pale yellow in color. On the nose, I get pear, apricot, melon and white flowers with an herbal note. Palate is zingy with lemon-lime, peach and a pronounced salinity. Medium+ acidity and medium+ finish. Certified sustainable. Alcohol: 12.5%. Price: $11.99
- 2020 Armani Grave Pinot Grigio, Fruili DOC – Farthest north of the Armani vineyards on stony soils left behind from a retreating glacier. Grapevines cover only 14% of the land. Pale straw in color. Delicate citrus aromas on the nose with a hint of hay. Palate is crisp, with medium+ acidity, lemon-lime on the back end and a sprinkle of sea salt. Smooth and weighty from aging on the lees. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 12.5%. Price: $12.99
- 2020 Armani Corvara Pinot Grigio, Valdadige DOC – Grapes are grown on a single estate on Lake Garda. Vineyards get reflected warmth off a rock wall and a lot of wind. Diurnal shifts range from 80 degrees during the day to 50 degrees at night, locking in acidity while maintaining freshness. Goldenrod in color. Pear, grapefruit and a hint of kiwi on the nose, followed by a tart, high-acid palate of grapefruit and grapefruit rind with a saline note. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 12.5%. Price: $14.99
- 2019 Armani Colle Ara Pinot Grigio, Terradeiforti Valdadige DOC – “Colle” means hill and “ara” means altar. Grapes from this small DOC are grown on a “sacred hill” where they’re exposed to late-afternoon sun. This special place has been in the Armani family “forever.” Copper in color. Nose is a blend of pear and nectarine with a twist of orange peel. Juicy grapefruit and mouth-watering watermelon dominate the palate with a touch of honeysuckle. Soft, round mouthfeel and medium+ acidity. A bit of welcome tannin on a long finish lends itself to pairing with chicken, sausage and fatty fish. Rich and delicious. Alcohol: 12.5%. Price: $21.99.