One name to get you started on French wine (#Winophiles)

French. Wine. Together, these may be two of the most intimidating words in our vocabulary. Where to start?

When Jeff at foodwineclick challenged the Winophiles blogging group to post advice for a friend new to French wine, I ruminated on this topic for weeks. Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne – France has a total of 11 wine regions, all distinctly different from one another. Within these regions are multiple subregions varied enough to make it très difficile to pick out one representative grape, wine, or producer.

“If you drank a new wine each night, it would take 8 years to drink your way through France.” – Wine Folly

I was confident my fellow bloggers would post excellent introductions to this complex subject – and they have. Jeff and Camilla (Culinary Adventures) help you to decipher a French wine label. Jill at L’Occasion gives you a simple road map, and Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles provides a handy and well-organized regional guide.

For this post, I decided to focus on an often overlooked but rising star in the French wine pantheon – the Languedoc-Roussillon – and one producer who has been instrumental in changing the quality and reputation of wine from this region: Gérard Bertrand. I was impressed by Bertrand’s story when the Winophiles focused on him last spring, and it’s easy to find and enjoy his affordable wines. Hey, you’ve got to start somewhere. Why not the south of France?

Please note that I purchased my own wines and received no compensation for this post.

If you’re reading this in time, hope you can join us for a Twitter chat on this topic Saturday, Jan. 18, starting at 11 am ET. The hashtag is #Winophiles.

Six reasons to start in Languedoc
Together, the Languedoc (pronounced “long-eh-dock”) and the adjoining Roussillon form one large wine region that stretches along the Mediterranean coast of France from the Spanish border to the city of Nîmes. Soils are varied, consisting mainly of limestone and schist, but also gravel transported by the region’s rivers. A warm, windy, semi-arid Mediterranean climate ensures good ripening of grapes, while proximity to the sea eases the otherwise scorching summer heat.  

The Languedoc-Roussillon of France produces more wine than any other geographic region in the world. But only 16% of the region’s wines are made under the highly regulated Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) label; the remainder fall under the more generic Indication Géographique Protegée (IGP) designation. Some IGP wines are actually quite good, but overall quality varies. It’s best to do your homework, ask questions, and exercise a bit of judgment when selecting wines from the south of France.

With that caveat in mind, here are six reasons to explore this region:

Reason #1: Languedoc-Roussillon is Jancis Robinson’s adoptive French home.
Jancis Robinson, one of the most acclaimed wine critics and wine writers in the world, calls the Languedoc “France’s New World wine region, with some improving appellations too.”

“… I see it as Provence without the tourists, without too many incomers like me pushing up prices and without, regrettably, the ubiquitous smell of lavender, thyme and pines. It is, however, archetypal Mediterranean wine country, with wild landscapes, Spain just over the Pyrenees, and vines stretching in every direction.” – Jancis Robinson

Reason #2: You can find every style of wine in the Languedoc-Roussillon.
About 75-80% of wines are reds, but the region and subregions (which go by their geographic names or “appellations”) also produce sparkling wines, whites, rosés, and fortified dessert wines. Among the most noteworthy are:

• Languedoc (formerly Coteaux du Languedoc) – Covers dry table wines from all over the region, but leaves the sweet and sparkling wines to more specialized appellations.
• Picpoul de Pinet – A white wine appellation produced from the regional white grape, Picpoul.
• Corbières – Fruity and rustic reds from Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre or Carignan.
• Minervois – Similar to Corbières, but more refined.
• Fitou – Located in the foothills of the Pyrenees to the south of Corbières, this appellation is considered to have unrealized potential.
• Crémant de Limoux and Blanquette de Limoux – Sparkling wines made in the traditional method, like Champagne.
• Banyuls – Sweet vins doux naturels from the southeastern corner of Roussillon, just a few miles from the Spanish border. Enjoyed as both aperitifs and dessert wines.

Reason #3: In recent years, quality has improved significantly.
The Languedoc-Roussillon produced more than its share of cheap table wine until the 1980s, when innovative and enterprising producers began to plant new grapevines and invest in new methods. Since then, the Languedoc-Roussillon has gradually improved its status as a quality producer by reducing yields and going back to blending wines with more Grenache.

Reason #4: Languedoc-Roussillon wines are good value for price.
While quality has improved, prices remain low compared to other French wine regions. High-quality Languedoc-Roussillon reds are now considered as inexpensive alternatives to southern Rhône wine and the region’s rosés compete favorably with those of Provence.

Reason #5: Grenache blends rule.
Love me that Grenache! The Languedoc-Roussillon region excels at blended red wines, which include the three big Rhône blending partners – Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre – along with Cinsault and Carignan.

“Imagine bold red raspberry, licorice, and grilled plum with a somewhat herbal oregano kick. Wines labeled with Corbières, Saint-Chinian, Fitou, Côtes du Roussillon Villages and Collioure are all great examples of Languedoc-Roussillon red blends.” – Wine Folly

Reason #6: Producers are focusing on sustainability.
The region is a leader in organic viticulture in France, accounting for over 30% of total production. Miren de Lorgeril, who was elected president of the Languedoc trade organization in 2018, has pledged to address sustainability during her tenure.  

Who is Gérard Bertrand?
For more than 30 years  – since leaving his successful career as a rugby star – wine producer Gérard Bertrand has leveraged his considerable fame and fortune to bring out the best in the diverse terroir of his homeland and give new meaning to the Mediterranean lifestyle.

Bertrand learned about wine alongside his father, Georges. He took over the family’s Villemajou Estate in 1987 after his father died in an accident. In the years that followed, he bought the Cigalus, Château Laville Bertrou, and Aigle estates. The acquisition in 2002 of Château l’Hospitalet, in the La Clape natural park between the ancient Roman city of Narbonne and the Mediterranean Sea, gave Bertrand “a whole new dimension” and the impetus to add the other estates to his empire.

The Gérard Bertrand group now consists of 15 wine-producing estates and 300 employees. In 2002, the group began a transition to biodynamic methods and practices on all of its estates. A carbon emissions assessment and an agroforestry program are among the group’s other sustainably minded activities. Moreover, Bertrand is a spokesperson for protecting the environment at events and conferences, such as the Climate Change Leadership wine industry conference held in Portugal in March 2019.

Three wines to whet your appetite
When exploring a new wine region, I find it helpful to know the name of at least one quality producer I can trust. Gérard Bertrand is that name in the Languedoc-Roussillon.

I generally prefer to recommend innovative small producers. Bertrand is an exception to that rule because of his commitment to quality and sustainability. His portfolio is diverse, and his wines are available just about everywhere. Here are three to try:

1. 2015 Gérard Bertrand Corbières AOC – Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre (GSM) classic red blend. I wrote about this wine last spring. Garnet in color with blackberry and cranberry aromas. On the palate, I get tar, licorice, black pepper, spice, and a memorable meatiness. Medium+ acidity makes this wine food friendly. Smooth tannins, medium+ body, medium+ finish. Easy to drink, but not simple. Alcohol: 13-14%. Price: $14.99. Suggested pairings: Spaghetti and meatballs or sausage, charcuterie.
2. 2015 Cap Insula Languedoc AOC – Syrah, Grenache, Carignan red blend. Ruby in color. Red cherry dominates the nose, with sour cherry, cranberry, and oregano on a smoky palate. I had the not-unpleasant sensation of sitting at a campfire in cranberry bogs. Smooth tannins, medium body, medium acidity, medium finish. Alcohol: 14%. Price: $12.99. Suggested pairings: Grilled meats, sautéed mushrooms.
3. 2018 Côtes des Roses Languedoc AOC – Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah rosé. Pretty wine in a pretty bottle (the base is in the shape of a rose). Pale pink in color. I get aromas of white blossoms, peach, nectarine, and strawberry. A whole grapefruit – fruit, pith, and peel – is packed into the palate. Flashes of lemon on a medium+ finish. Medium+ acid. Refreshing. Alcohol: 13%. Price: $14.99. Suggested pairings: Shellfish, salmon.

After you’ve explored the Languedoc-Roussillon, you’ll find great ideas for getting into other French wine regions at the posts below. Hope to see you on the Twitter chat Saturday, Jan. 18!

• Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles shares “French Wine…Where to Begin?”
• Pierre and Cynthia at Traveling Wine Profs share “Exploring French Wine on a Tight Budget at Trader Joe’s”
• Camilla at Culinary Adventures with Cam shares “Deciphering French Wine Labels”
• Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm shares “Mediterranean Shrimp with a Corsican Wine”
• Jill at L’Occasion shares “Your Ticket To French Wine Is Actually A Map“
• Nicole at Somm’s Table shares “French Wine 101 Cheat Sheet”
• Pinny at Chinese Food and Wine Pairings shares “Learn about Wines from the Bourgueil AOC While Eating Pork Tongue Head Cheese + Napa Cabbage Salad”
• Linda at My Full Wine Glass shares “One Name to Get You Started on French Wine”
• Jane at Always Ravenous shares “Discover French Wine: Where to Start”
• Gwen at Wine Predator shares two:
• “Introduce a Friend to French Wine 1: Chateauneuf – du – Pape and Cassoulet”
• “Introduce a Friend to French Wine 2: Loire’s Amirault in Nicholas Bourgeil”
• Susannah at Avvinare adds “Start Your French Wine Study With Beaujolais ”
• Terri at Our Good Life shares “Newcomer’s Guide to French Wine: the Burgundies“
• Jeff at Food Wine Click! shares “French Wine 101: Taste for Yourself”