On the road in Oregon? Check out the sparkling wine

Let me start this post about Oregon sparkling wine by saying a few words about Lambrusco. Don’t worry – I promise to connect the dots.

It’s been hit or miss for me with Lambrusco from central Italy. Too many of these red sparkling wines taste grapey and lack complexity. Now, fans might insist I haven’t met the right Lambrusco yet. OK, I’m down with that. Even so, imagine my surprise to encounter a fruity, crisp and absolutely delicious Lambrusco-style wine from southern Oregon, of all places.

Famous for its Pinot Noir, Oregon is just as likely to turn your head for its bubblies. No matter where you are in the state, you’re likely to find a sparkling wine that impresses.

The wine that delighted and surprised me was a 2020 Troon Vineyard Frizzante, a slightly sparkling blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano. Made in the Metodo Ancestrale, which means it was bottle fermented, this dry, fizzy wine is a natural soul mate for pizza. Only 10.5% alcohol and $35 a bottle. Chug responsibly.

I tasted this delightful Troon wine at the Wine Media Conference in Eugene, Oregon, last month. That’s when I also discovered that Oregon sparkling wines are worth getting to know. Many thanks to L.M. Archer for moderating a panel discussion on the state’s sparkling wines and to the Oregon Wine Board, a conference sponsor.

Please note that while the wines for this post were provided, opinions are my own.

Ready to hit the road?

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and a cool climate – a combo that sounds like Burgundy or Champagne, right? How about the Willamette Valley? This well-regarded Oregon wine region is located on the same 49^th parallel as its French counterparts. Pinot Noir/Chardonnay bubblies have been produced here for about 50 years – ever since Cal and Julia Lee Knudsen purchased a 200-acre former walnut orchard in the Dundee Hills and set out to produce both still and sparkling wines. Nowadays, winemakers are trying their hand with sparkling wines made from other varieties, too.

In the central and southern Willamette Valley, vineyards are slightly higher in altitude and the climate is slightly cooler than in the northern part of the region. Consisting mainly of well-drained sedimentary soils, these vineyards are perfect for deeply rooted grapevines and sparkling wines with bright acidity. Farmers follow the traditional practice of picking early to preserve acidity levels.

Further south, where days are warmer and rain is infrequent during the summer months, a wide range of micro-climates and soil types allow for a variety of grapes –whites such as Albariño, Marsanne, Roussanne, Vermentino and Viognier, and reds that include Carménère, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Sangiovese, Tannat and Tempranillo. Southern Oregon producers get creative with these varieties to produce unusual sparkling wines.

Four wineries to visit

Styring Winery, Newberg
Styring Winery sits on a 40-acre parcel of land in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, about 20 miles south of Portland. Ribbon Ridge soils consist of fine sandstone, siltstone and mudstone, making them distinct from the basalt and volcanic soils of adjacent AVAs. Half of the family’s acreage is home to wildlife. On the other half, the Styrings grow grapes and produce wine. Nine and a half acres of their land are planted to Pinot Noir but just one acre is devoted to Riesling – what the Styrings call their “whimsy.” They specialize in small lots of Pinot Noir, Riesling and other varietals. Steve Styring traces his family’s Viking heritage back to 700 AD!

• Styring RIXI Brut Method Champenoise Sparkling – Steve’s first sparkling wine, named for one of his ancient Viking ancestors, is made from 100% estate-grown Riesling and vinified in the Méthode Champenoise traditional style (secondary fermentation in the bottle). RIXI matures for seven months on light lees and 18 months in the bottle before being disgorged. A kiss of sweetness is balanced by citrus and apples on a round, toasty palate. Price: $45.

Willamette Valley Vineyards, Salem Hills
Founded in 1983 by Oregon native Jim Bernau with the dream of creating world-class Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Vineyards was lauded as “One of America’s Great Pinot Noir Producers” by Wine Enthusiast Magazine. The winery is located in the central Willamette Valley, about nine miles southeast of Salem. Because sparkling wine is a time and capital-intensive undertaking, Willamette Valley Vineyards works with a mobile bottler. Bernau’s daughter, Emi, helped design a family crest for the label taking inspiration from their heritage and the biodynamic farming practices used at Bernau Estate Vineyard.

• 2017 Willamette Valley Vineyards Bernau Estate Méthode Champenoise Brut – This inaugural vintage of Champagne-style sparkling wine was sourced from estate-grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. According to the producer, “this blend combines the structure and vibrancy of Pinot Noir with the finesse and roundness of Chardonnay.” But the “secret sauce,” says the winery’s Christine Clair, is Pinot Blanc. Aged on its lees for 23 months to develop added complexity before being disgorged, the wine has apple and bread notes on the nose, and citrus and tree fruits on a creamy yet bright palate. Price: $65.

Sweet Cheeks Winery & Vineyard, Eugene
Sweet Cheeks got its start in 1978 when owner Dan Smith planted a vineyard on a rolling hillside in Crow, Oregon, about 13 miles west of Eugene in the southern Willamette Valley. As the story goes, Dan noticed the curious shape of the land one day after finishing his work. He decided to call the vineyard “Sweet Cheeks.” He continued to farm the land, supplying Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling grapes to local wineries, until a building slated for demolition became available in 2003. Dan took a chance and relocated the building from Junction City to the vineyard. Doors opened for business in November 2005.

• 2018 Sweet Cheeks Winery & Vineyard Trio Sparkling Wine – A 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonay, this bubbly is made in the Méthode Champenoise with no skin contact and zero dosage (brut nature). The name “Trio” pays homage to the third generation of the Sweet Cheeks Winery family born the same year the grapes were harvested. Fruity and spicy aromas with a hint of wet stone. Bright, crisp and dry on the palate. Price: $38.

Troon Vineyard, Applegate Valley
A Demeter Biodynamic® Certified and Regenerative Organic Certified™️ farm, Troon is located high above the Applegate River in the Siskiyou Mountains of southern Oregon. Sheep, chickens, dogs, honeybees, wildlife, humans and grapevines all find a home on this almost 100-acre farm. Along with focusing on healthy soils and vines, Troon takes a minimalist approach to winemaking. They use only native yeasts with no additives to ferment their wines and avoid the use of new oak barrels.

In addition to their Frizzante, here are two other Troon sparklers to try. Both are made in the Metodo Ancestrale and finish with only 10.5% alcohol:

• 2020 Troon Vineyard Pét tanNat – A rustic pétillant natural from their estate Tannat in a brut nature style, this wine is made in the middle of harvest season, and as Troon’s Craig Camp explains, once started, “we drop everything and can’t stop.” The wine is still actively fermenting when bottled under crown caps. Price: $35.
• 2020 Troon Vineyard Piquette! – This “frugal farm fizz” is made from leftover skins of all varieties. After gently pressing their estate white and rosé wines, there’s substantial juice left in the skins. To that juice they add a touch of water, then let it macerate overnight in the press. The next day, they press the juice into a stainless-steel tank, where a native yeast fermentation begins. Just before fermentation is complete, they quickly bottle the new wine under crown caps. Fresh and fruity. Price: $25.