Of Israeli wines, long-ago memories, and Harvey’s takeout (#WinePW)

Ah, the Galilee (Galil) in springtime! Red poppy flowers blanket the hillsides. Red-tiled rooftops dot the landscape. Round a bend and you may catch a glimpse of the glimmering lake (“Kinneret” to Israelis, for its harp-shaped appearance).

More than 25 years ago, my family of four traveled throughout this ancient and modern land – from the Galilee and Golan Heights “up north” to the Red Sea in the south.

On the Golan Heights, we piled into a jeep for a bumpy ride up and down the rugged terrain. About midway – in the middle of nowhere – our guide abruptly stopped, pulled out a camp stove, and proceeded to heat water for delicious Turkish coffee. Another day, we bathed in the mineral-rich hot springs at a spa overlooking three countries – Israel, Jordan, and Syria.

A lot of time has passed, but my memories of Israel are vivid and unmatched by any place I’ve visited since then. Israel is that special – magical, really, known of course as the nexus of three great religions, a place where East meets West. Biblical history is a living, breathing presence for sure. Yet, the country is also innovative and forward minded. It has this duality about it.

Take their wines, for example.

Winemaking is ancient – over 2,000 years old and possibly a lot older – and linked to sacred ritual practices. During Roman times, the wine was exported to Rome in amphora (clay pots). But modern winemaking, which is comparable to that of any world-class wine region, is only now hitting its stride.

Credit for founding the modern Israeli wine industry goes to Baron Edmond James de Rothschild, owner of the esteemed Bordeaux estate of Château Lafite-Rothschild. In the late 19th century, Rothschild began importing French grapes and technical know-how to the region.

For most of the modern era, the Israeli wine industry was focused on producing large quantities of cheap, mostly sweet Kosher wine. Then, in the 1980s, a “quality revolution” got underway with an influx of talented winemakers from Australia, California, and France. While 95% of Israeli wine is still Kosher, most high-quality Israeli wine is now produced via Rabbinical supervision and using modern winemaking techniques.

Today, if I were traveling in the Galilee and the Golan Heights, I would notice a markedly different landscape than the one I remember –  many more vineyards and wineries!  

Perhaps I’ll travel there again one day, or so I’d like to believe. But the truth is, with so many wine regions yet to explore, a return trip to Israel may be only wishful thinking. For now, I’ll have to content myself with memories and virtual visits, like the Wine Pairing Weekend extra event on Twitter this Saturday, May 23, starting at 11 am ET. If reading this in time, hope you will join us by following the #WinePW hashtag.

(Please note that while the wines for this post were provided, opinions are my own.)

A bit of background

There are five Israeli winemaking regions:

• Upper Galilee, Lower Galilee, and the Golan Heights
• Judean Hills surrounding the city of Jerusalem
• Shimshon (Samson), located between the Judean Hills and the Coastal Plain
• Negev, a semi-arid desert region where drip irrigation is crucial
• Sharon plain near the Mediterranean coast, just south of Haifa.

International varieties – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carignan, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay – are the most prevalent throughout Israel.

The Galilee and the Golan Heights is the region best suited to viticulture, thanks to the high elevation, cool breezes, and well-draining soils. High altitude compensates for the region’s latitude (roughly the same as the area from San Diego to the Mexican border), and the region enjoys relatively high rainfall for a semi-dry, Mediterranean climate. Some high-altitude areas can actually see snow during the winter.

The Lower Galilee is the smallest of the three areas in the north, with just a small grape-growing district concentrated around Mount Tabor. Iron-rich terra rossa soil in this area is similar to that of Coonawarra, Australia.

Vineyards in the Upper Galilee and the Golan Heights are more widespread. Among the soil types are free-draining gravels like those found in Graves (Bordeaux, France); limestone similar to what you’d find in the Loire Valley and Burgundy regions of France; and mineral-rich volcanic basalt similar to soil in the Italian wine regions of Vesuvio (Campania) and Etna (Sicily).  

Yarden Inc., the source of wines for this post, imports wines from Golan Heights Winery and Galil Mountain Winery. The company was established in 2001 as a fully owned subsidiary of Golan Heights Winery. It is headquartered in New York City.

The wineries and the wines

Golan Heights Winery
Founded in 1983, Golan Heights Winery is located in Katzrin, in the central Golan, and built on the site of an ancient agricultural village. Golan Heights Winery markets under the Golan, Yarden, and Gamla labels and is the parent company of Galil Mountain Winery.

The third largest winery in Israel, Golan Heights is owned by eight moshavim and kibbutzim (cooperative agricultural settlements) that supply the grapes from 16 vineyards in the Golan Heights and one vineyard in the Upper Galilee. Some 1,500 acres of vineyards stretch from the Sea of Galilee north to snow-capped Mount Hermon, at 3,900 feet altitude. The climate on this high-elevation volcanic plateau is the coolest in Israel.

Golan Heights Head Winemaker Victor Schoenfeld emphasizes an analytical, “precision” approach to viticulture. His team consults several advanced meteorological measures daily to plan their work in the vineyards.

Both Golan Heights Winery and Galil Mountain Winery received the first international certification for sustainable vineyards under the LODI RULES program. Of the total vineyards of both wineries, about 425 acres are registered under the LODI RULES set of comprehensive protocols.

The 2019 Yarden Sauvignon Blanc is made solely from grapes grown in vineyards on the northern Golan Heights. A small portion of the wine was fermented in French oak barrels.

My tasting notes: Straw yellow in color. A subtle, blended nose of pineapple and lemon-lime aromas with a hint of white blossoms gives way to a grapefruit-dominated palate that is both slightly tart and slightly creamy. Medium+ acidity. Light to medium body. Medium finish. Polished. My preferred style of Sauv Blanc – smooth but not too smoky; citrusy without being grassy like a New Zealand Sauv Blanc. Alcohol: 13.5% Price: $19.99.

Galil Mountain Winery
Established as a joint venture in 2000 by Golan Heights Winery and Kibbutz Yiron, Galil Mountain Winery is located in the Upper Galilee mountain range. Galil Mountain manages six vineyards reaching an altitude of 2,800 feet in the most mountainous areas. Vineyards enjoy warm summer days and cool nights, with snow and frost in winter. Soils vary from limestone to flint, terra rossa, and basalt. Minimal treatments are used in the vineyards.

The 2018 Galil Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon underwent about seven days of fermentation in stainless steel vats, malolactic fermentation (converting harsh malic acid to softer lactic acid), and six months of aging, also in stainless vats to preserve its fruity character.

My tasting notes: Garnet red in color. A nose of earthy blackberry and eucalyptus mint, followed by mint, tobacco, and spice on the palate. A bit tannic at first but smooths out with a little air. Medium body. Medium+ acidity. Longish finish. Juicy and refreshing – more Australian in character than jammy Californian. Truth be told, I’m not much of a Cab drinker, but once again, this is my preferred style – and I like it with a little chill to bring out the fruitiness. Alcohol: 14.5%. Price: $17.99.

The pairings

First we opened the Sauvignon Blanc. Looking to match the weight of the meal to this slightly oaked wine, I chose a creamy coconut-lime salmon recipe. The pairing has the potential for a five-star rating, but I was out of ginger and reduced the sauce too much. So I can only give it a 3 ½. I would definitely try it again.

Next up was the moment the spouse and I were waiting for – Harvey’s and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Our favorite barbecue joint opened for takeout in May – an event to celebrate! And now we had a wine to serve alongside barbecued brisket. The barbecue sauce may have had a touch of sugar – something to avoid when pairing barbecue to dry wine – but the fruity Cab Sauv met the challenge. I was so eager to dig in that I quickly snapped the photo before removing my dinner from the Styrofoam box. (Boo hiss to Styrofoam, but a big thumbs-up to Harvey’s brisket.)

Wait – there’s more! The following Wine Pairing Weekend bloggers are exploring and pairing Israeli wines. Please check out their posts and join us May 23!

• Terri at Our Good Life pairs Grilled Mahi Mahi and Gilgal Sauvignon Blanc.
• Gwendolyn at Wine Predator posts The Eternal Light Shines in Galilee: Yarden Merlot, Pinot Gris.
• Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm matches Lamb Stuffed Eggplant and a perfect Wine from Galilee.
• Deanna at Asian Test Kitchen offers Yarden Wines Paired with Japanese Surf ‘nTurf.
• Rupal at Syrah Queen is Off the Beaten Path – Two Wines From Israel’s Galilee Appellation.
• Linda at My Full Wine Glass writes Of Israeli Wines, Long-ago Memories,and Harvey’s Takeout.
• David at Cooking Chat shares Pairings for Gilgal Sauvignon Blanc from Israel.
• Payal at Keep the Peas pairs Israeli Wine with the Diverse Cuisine of the Diaspora.
• Nicole at Somm’s Table pours Memories of Yarden Wines with a side of Meatball Shakshuka.
• Jennifer at Vino Travels writes Pairings with Wines from Israel.
• Camilla at Culinary Adventures with Camilla matches Peppered Brisket, Honeyed Onions, and the 2016 Galil Mountain ‘Ela’.
• Pinny of Chinese Food and Wine Pairings is Enjoying Gilgal Cab Sauvignon – Merlot and Yarden Pinot Gris with Grilled Wagyu Steak, Alaska Sockeye Salmon and Poke Ahi Tuna Bowl.
• Susannah of Avvinare is Visiting Israel for Memorial Day Through Yarden Wines.
• Jeff at Food Wine Click! has a Two Fisted Wine Pairing with YardenWines.