Newbies to old-world Malbec discover Cahors (#Winophiles)

Do you remember the first wine you loved? For us, it was Argentinian Malbec – inky purple, bold and spicy.

The spouse and I adopted Malbec as our go-to red not long after graduating from the cheap, big-name brands that filled the wine rack in our 20s and, to be honest, beyond then. For us, “new-world” Malbec (so-named because it is grown outside Europe, the “old-world”) was a robust and reliable pairing companion to grilled steaks and burgers, and a sure hit among our friends.

A lot of years and education later, we now enjoy whites and reds from a long list of new and old-world wine regions. Until this week, though, we were newbies to Malbec from its birthplace – Cahors, France. Thanks to the #Winophiles chat on Saturday, Oct. 19, and generous samples arranged by Jill of L’Occasion, we have a new, old Malbec to love and cherish.

Please note that while the wines for this post were provided, opinions are my own.

The region

Cahors is located in southwestern France, 100 miles east of Bordeaux, in the newly formed region of Occitanie. Equidistant (130 miles) from both the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea, Cahors enjoys a mix of continental, maritime and Mediterranean climates. Most notably, summer days are warmer and sunnier than in Bordeaux, allowing grapes to fully ripen. Rainfall, meanwhile, is significantly less, reducing the risk of fungal diseases and minimizing the need to spray. The dry climate also stresses the vines, encouraging deep root systems that concentrate the sugars and chemical compounds in the grapes.

The Cahors wine region spreads for 25 miles along a tightly meandering section of the Lot River. The Lot rises in the hills of the Massif Central and winds slowly westwards through the southern French countryside before flowing into the Garonne and continuing on to Bordeaux.

Vineyards here are roughly divided into two categories. Those on the Causse, a limestone plateau formed by a sea that existed some 150 million years ago, produce the most tannic, longest-lived wines. Those on the gravelly slopes between the plateau and the rivers turn out more approachable, fruitier wines.

The region is known for its Malbec (called Côt and Auxerrois, locally) – 85% of Cahors vineyards are planted to Malbec – and also grows small quantities of Tannat and Merlot. To carry the Cahors Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) name on its label, the wine must be at least 70% Malbec.

Since the 1990s, Cahors winemakers have invested in studying their terroir, experimenting with distinctive wine styles and enhancing their knowledge. Recognizing that Argentina first allowed the world to discover Malbec, Cahors winemakers, in 2007-2008, adopted and started implementing a marketing plan to promote their region’s history and own unique terroir for crafting not only Malbec, but other fine wines, too.

Nicole of Somm’s Table, our host for the October #Winophiles chat, wrote this excellent summary of all things Cahors, based on her own travels around the region. I highly recommend it!

The Wines

Overall, Cahors is more structured (tannic) – with a lighter body and brighter acidity – than Argentinian Malbec. Reviewers say Cahors is “tighter and leaner” than its more “opulent” new-world cousin. Confused? Think of Cahors as a racehorse – both lean and powerful. Without oak, the dark berry fruit is dominant. After oak aging, the Cahors shows characteristic meaty, herby aromas and sometimes a hint of cedar on the finish.

2018 Clos D’Audhuy Les Polissons Cahors AOC, 100% Malbec
Clos d’Audhuy is located in the village of Lacapelle-Cabanac, in the western part of the Cahors wine region. Under the direction of third-generation winemaker Benoit Aymard, the estate is in the process of becoming certified organic. Vineyards are located 500 to 850 feet above sea level on the alluvial and gravel slopes of the Lot River and on the Causse (plateau). Les Polissons is produced from 30-year-old vines and undergoes no wood aging. It is meant to drink young.

My tasting notes: Inky purple in color. Fruity aromas of plum and blackberry with medium body, medium tannins and medium+ acidity on the palate. Alcohol: 13.5% Average price (2016): $14. Very food-friendly!

2016 Château Vincens Origine Cahors AOC, 95% Malbec, 5% Merlot
Château Vincens is located 15.5 miles from the town of Cahors, on the Causse (plateau) near the village of Luzec, at an altitude of almost 1,000 feet. With a total of 89 acres, the estate benefits from the warm dry fall and Southeast wind (Vent d’Autan). The Origine spends 10 to 15 months aging in oak.

My tasting notes: Purple in color, but not as deep as the other two wines. Lighter body, too. Plum and blackberry aromas and a whiff of chocolate. Hint of cedar on the palate. Medium+ acid. Medium+ tannins. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 13.5%. Average price: $14. My favorite!

2008 Les Roques de Cana Sanguis Christi Cahors AOC, 100% Malbec
Les Roques de Cana notes that Cahors was one of the first vineyards planted after the Roman invasion of Gaul, more than 2,000 years ago. Over 100 acres of south-facing vineyards are planted on clay-limestone soils located on the slopes of the Lot River, about 11 miles west of Cahors. Vines used to produce the Sanguis Christi are an average of 40 years old. Aged in 50% new French oak and 50% one-year-old French oak for 12 to 14 months.

My tasting notes: Deep purple in color. Dark berries on the nose. Earthy on the nose and palate – the earthiest of the three samples – like foraging in wild blackberry bushes. Medium body and mouth-coating, but not offensive tannins. Medium acidity. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 14.5%. Average price: $24. The most textured and elegant of the three.

The pairing
I generally have a saga to share on pairing red wines. Because I’m committed to light fare, which includes fish and lean poultry, I struggle to get the weight and umami (savory/meaty flavor) needed for a successful red-wine pairing.

Fortunately, the high acidity in these wines lends itself to pairing them easily with food. But Cahors can be tannic, too, so my only words of caution are to watch out for too much chili spice in the food.

I decided on an easy chicken and sausage cassoulet. Long, slow cooking is the secret to a good cassoulet. This one reduces the cooking time – but, hey, everything tastes so much better the second day anyway! I was pleased with the results.

Hope you will check out the posts listed below and join us on Saturday, Oct. 19, beginning at 8 am ET, for a Twitter chat about Cahors. Simply follow the hashtag #Winophiles.

• Jane from Always Ravenous explores the Flavors of Fall Paired with Cahors Malbec.
• Cathie of Side Hustle Wino looks at Cahors  – The Birthplace of Malbec.
• Jill from L’Occasion shares Cahors, a French Classic.
• Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla will be posting Château du Cèdre Extra Libre 2018 Malbec + Cider-Braised Chicken Thighs.
• Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm samples A Trio of Cahors Wine and the Pairings Served.
• Jeff of FoodWineClick! gives us The Malbec You Never Knew: Cahors.
• Linda of My Full Wine Glass shares Newbies to Old-World Malbec Discover Cahors.
• Cindy of Grape Experiences explores The Old-World Style of Malbec from Cahors.
• Deanna of Asian Test Kitchen gives us French Malbecs Meet Chinese Duck.
• David of Cooking Chat pairs Mushroom Truffle Risotto with Cahors Malbec.
• Pierre and Cynthia, the Traveling Wine Profs, give us Cahors, Hainan Chicken Rice, and the Stories Wine Books Tell.
• Pinny of Chinese Food and Wine Pairings matches Cahors Malbecs and Waygu Beef.
• Gwen from Wine Predator shares From Cahors: Biodynamic Chateau du Cedre Malbec with French Charcuterie.
• Susannah of Avvinare will be Shedding Light on Old World Malbec from Cahors.
• Payal of Keep the Peas discusses Cahors: What Put Malbec on the Map.
• Rupal of Syrah Queen will posting Cahors – Tasting “Black Wines” With The Original Malbec.
• And our host, Nicole, is Bringing Home Cahors with Clos D’Audhuy” on Somm’s Table.