Here’s a riddle: Two bottles of open red wine are in the fridge. One is a complex, savory Cabernet Sauvignon from Washington state. The other is a light-bodied, northern Italian red blend that hasn’t spent any time in oak. Which do you finish first?
Quite reasonably, your answer might be the one in the fridge the longest. But as the Wine Pairing Weekend (#winePW) bloggers prove over and over, food pairing matters. In a mostly vegan or vegetarian household, a light style of red likely will get more attention than a heavier, oak-aged variety.
That’s been our experience this week after opening a 2018 Rosset Terroir Vin Rouge (red wine) from Valle d’Aosta in the northwestern corner of Italy. Wait, did you just read vin rouge from Italy? Yes, on the border with France and Switzerland, the strong French influence is evident in names, words and cuisine.
My retail advisor, Carol, suggested this red blend when I explained that the bloggers were focusing in January on “new-to-you” grapes. This blend consists of one well-known red grape, Syrah, and two northern Italian native grapes – Petit Rouge and Cornalin. I thought both native grapes were new to me. When I got home and reviewed my posts, lo and behold I had already tasted Petit Rouge in a Torrette wine from Valle d’Aosta. Oh, well. Cornalin is definitely new to me!
The region
Valle d’Aosta is Italy’s smallest and least populous region. The region’s backbone is a narrow mountain valley that runs from Mont Blanc southeast to neighboring Piedmont. Vines extend about 45 miles through this valley, with most on the steep, south-facing slopes above the Dora Boltea river, a tributary of the Po. The valley floor is too fertile for grape growing.
Because of its location in the rain shadow of the Western Alps, Valle d’Aosta enjoys warm, dry summers. Nights, however, are much cooler, leading to a diurnal shift that locks in flavor and acidity. Stony soil stresses the vines and drives roots deep for water and nutrients. Harsh conditions, but Valle D’Aosta producers prefer them.
Though the region has no Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG), the highest designation for Italian wines, that’s really a function of size, not quality. If you’re looking for light-bodied reds from regional native grapes, you’re in the right place.
The producer
As a family business, Rosset Terroir is an outlier in a region where about 75% of wine is produced by cooperatives. In 2001, the Rosset family decided to plant a vineyard, starting with rooted cuttings of Chardonnay, on about three hectares of their land in Saint-Christophe. This was followed by Syrah and Cornalin, a native grape. After expanding their vineyards, they added Petit Rouge, another native grape.
In recent years, the company has invested in two additional areas, Chambave and Villeneuve.
Rosset Terroir also cultivates raspberry, génépy (a traditional herb popular in the Alpine regions of Europe) and saffron. These ingredients are used in the company’s line of spirits, St. Roch distilleries.
Finally, the Rosset farmhouse is run on solar energy, and the company provides a recharge station for electric cars.
New-to-me grapes
A dark-skinned grape, Petit Rouge is the most widely planted red variety in Valle d’Aosta. Its tart, red fruit profile is similar to Beaujolais. In Chambave, 70% of vineyards are planted to Petit Rouge.
Cornalin, or Cornalin d’Aoste to distinguish it from Cornalin du Valais, is distantly related to Petit Rouge. It’s all very confusing and interconnected. The important thing is that Cornalin d’Aoste is a tannic grape that still grows extensively throughout Valle d’Aoste and often finds itself in red blends.
The wine: Rosset Terroir Vin Rouge Trasor 750, Valle d’Aosta DOC
Blend of Syrah, Petit Rouge and Cornalin (precise percentages and vintage unknown)
Produced in the Chambave sub-region of Valle d’Aosta. Fermented and aged in steel tanks.
My tasting notes: Rosy with a brick red hue. I get raspberry and pine needles on the nose, followed by raspberry upfront, tart cherry and a hint of peppermint on a peppery, medium finish. Medium+ acidity. Drink now. Alcohol:13%. Price: $20.
The pairing: Mushroom polenta
Polenta versus grits. “What’s the difference?” I asked the universe. Response: Both are made from stone-ground cornmeal. Coarse and “toothsome” northern Italian polenta is traditionally made from flint corn, while Southern (US) grits are made from dent corn and cook into a soft, creamy texture.
Good to know!
This earthy mushroom polenta with a splash of red wine vinegar was a perfect dance partner for the Rosset Terroir Vin Rouge. Neither one overstepped their bounds. The two stayed in sync throughout the meal. I chose meaty oyster mushrooms as they’re a spouse favorite. A mixed greens salad with tarragon-mustard vinaigrette complemented the wine, too.
Looking to get off the Cab, Pinot, Merlot treadmill? Here are ideas from all of this month’s bloggers:
- 2019 Palazzo Tronconi ‘Fregellae’ + Cicchetti by ENOFYLZ Wine Blog
- A Little-Cultivated Sicilian Grape Along with a Perennial Favorite – Polpette al Sugo Pomodoro by Culinary Cam
- A New Greek Wine with Tzatziki Dip by Cooking Chat
- A New Varietal for a New Year by A Day in the Life on the Farm
- Mushroom Polenta and Vin Rouge with Native Grapes by My Full Wine Glass
- Red Sparklers: New Year, New Wines from Italy’s Cantina de Frignano by Wine Predator…Gwendolyn Alley
- Sparkling Vernaccia Nera from Le Marche – An Exciting Discovery by Avvinare
- Stuffed Portuguese Peppers and an the Arinto Grape by Our Good Life
“It’s all very confusing and interconnected” – You just described much of Italian wine in 6 words! Sounds like a lovely light-bodied acid driven wine. Love those. The mushroom polenta looks and sound great (and I too have wondered about the difference between grits and polenta – Thanks. didn’t know they made from different types of corn!)
I was anxious to read your article after our chat and am happy for the link to this recipe. Thanks.
Linda –
The dish sounds marvelous and thanks for the link to the Tarragon dressing. I absolutely love wines from Valle d’Aosta and it was fun to read your take on the area and this particular wine which I am not familiar with. I also had no idea about the difference between polenta and grits and am happy for the news about Oyster mushrooms being meatier.
It is hard to tease out which grapes bring what to a blend. Cornalin is a fun grape to have discovered. Cheers to you, Susannah
An interesting wine find! I haven’t had either of those grapes. And the polenta sounds delicious!