Mourvèdre rules Bandol vineyards during summer in Provence (#Winophiles)

Forget Cabernet Sauvignon. Forget Merlot. If you’re looking for a deep and intense red wine, Mourvèdre is the choice for you.

Mourvèdre loves, loves, loves the heat and arid, well-drained, sandy marl and limestone soils of Bandol, in the southern part of Provence, France.

Bordered by the Rhône River to the west and Côte d’Azur to the east, Provence is a 150-mile-long, 100-mile-wide slice of heaven. Lots of sunshine. Not much rain. With the Mediterranean to moderate temperatures and the Mistral wind to keep vineyards dry and pest free. Throughout the region, the smell of lavender, rosemary, juniper and thyme – collectively called “garrigue” – permeates the air and lends itself to the character of wines. See my previous post for more on Provence and a regional map.

The French Winophiles are spending a virtual summer in Provence this month. Check out the tasting notes and pairing suggestions from these bloggers:

• “Wishing I were spending Summer in Provence with a Roche Bellemont Rose” on A Day in the Life on the Farm
• “Summertime Lobster Roll and a Provence Rosè” on Our Good Life
• “Summertime and the Living is Easy. Especially in Provençe” on Side Hustle Wino
• “More than Rosé: Pairing a Provençal Red with a Smoked Paprika-Rubbed Pork Chop” on Culinary Cam
• “A Taste of Provence: Food and Wine Pairings” on Always Ravenous
• “French Rosé Wine from Provence… and Côtes du Rhône paired with Fish Tacos” on Wine Predator
• “Mourvèdre rules Bandol vineyards during summer in Provence” on My Full Wine Glass

Focusing on Bandol

From a grape-growing perspective, Bandol has so much in its favor. Protected from cold north winds by the coastal mountains, vineyards here stay reliably warm. The area’s hillside vineyards from a natural amphitheater. The terraced walls consist of river stone called “restanques.”

After the phylloxera epidemic decimated France in the late 19^th century, Bandol estate owners wisely replanted their vineyards to Mourvèdre. Now Bandol is a name known worldwide for rich red wines produced from up to 95% Mourvèdre [at least 50% is required] and aged in oak for at least 18 months. Bandol also produces whites from a blend of Clairette and Ugni Blanc or Bourbouenc and rosé.

Grenache is the other grape that finds its way into Bandol red and rosé blends. Grenache ripens earlier than Mourvèdre. To prevent over-ripening in Bandol’s intense heat, Grenache is planted on the cooler, north-facing slopes while Mourvèdre holds its place on the warmer, south-facing slopes.

Cinsaut is also a component of Bandol red blends, along with small amounts of Carignan and Syrah.

A bottle of red, a bottle of rosé

2020 Olivier Ravoire Le Pont, Bandol AOC
60%Mourvèdre, 40% Grenache
Located in Provence-Alpes, Famille Ravoire is an independent family business specializing in wines from the Rhône Valley and Provence. The business was founded in 1987 by Roger Ravoire with the help of his wife Francine. In 2004, their son Olivier joined the company to develop and promote the business. They export to 50 countries.

My tasting notes: Deep ruby in color. Nose is gamey with the jammy aroma of blackberry  pie, black licorice, and blended herbs and spices. Palate is dry and like a slice of savory blackberry pie with that same gaminess. Mouth-coating, warm and smooth, with medium+ acidity and medium+ length. Alcohol: 14%. Price: $24.49.

2021 Chateau Vivonne Rosé, Bandol AOC
70% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache
Founded in 1904, the 62-acre estate is located on terraced hillsides around the medieval village of Le Castellet. Vines average 30 years old. Soils are sandy loam on marly limestone. The estate practices traditional agriculture. The land is plowed, and the vines planted in November with winter furrow. Grapes are harvested by hand. They use only mildew and powdery mildew treatments on grapes. No insecticides, weed killers or synthetic fertilizer. Rosés (and whites) are aged in enamel vats.

My tasting notes: Copper in color. Nose is fruitier than the subtle Provence rosés I’ve tasted, with fresh nectarine and apricot aromas, but also vegetal. I get grapefruit (“pomelo,” says the spouse) and a peppery taste on the palate with a slightly watermelon note at the end of a medium finish. Extremely food friendly. Alcohol: 13.5%. Price: $24.99.

Food, glorious food

The obvious pairing for Mourvèdre is meat or game. But in keeping with my preference to limit red meat, I opted for these two dishes:

• Grilled portobello mushrooms
• Classic niçoise salad

Both wines complemented both dishes. The fruity and vegetal Bandol rosé almost sang for the niçoise salad, and the Mourvèdre red blend especially enjoyed the grilled mushrooms. Happiness all around.

Sources: Society of Wine Educators, Wine Folly, wine-searcher