Make ‘room for Saumur Champigny from the Loire (#Winophiles)

What do you know about Cabernet Franc?

If you live on the East Coast, as I do, you may know that Cab Franc is gaining a foothold among producers from New York State to Virginia. Perhaps you’ve been poured a Cab Franc, a rosé of Cab Franc or even a Cab Franc ice wine on a winery tour. Hardy and cold-tolerant, the grape adapts well to the variable climate we have in this part of the country.

In France, where the grape originates, Cab Franc goes by many names – Bordo, Bouchet, Bouchy, Breton – or by its various place names, such as Chinon, Bourgueil, St.-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and Saumur-Champigny. It is popular both as a single varietal and as a minor player in the classic Bordeaux red blend with its offspring, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

The central Loire Valley, in particular, is known for single-varietal Cab Franc. So, when the French Winophiles group of wine, travel and food bloggers chose the Anjou-Saumur region as the theme for this month’s chat on July 20, I was pleased to find a Saumur Champigny in one of the Pennsylvania state stores near me.

Located in the heart of the Loire, Saumur has long been a center for the wine trade. The name “Champigny”may derive from the Latin campus igni (field of fire), named for the area’s exceptionally warm microclimate. Only the highest quality Saumur red wines, from eight communes closest to Saumur, are permitted to append this name to their location.

The unique soils around Champigny are the reason the area was singled out as a separate subregion. A seven-mile plateau of tuffeau– the yellowish metamorphic rock that distinguishes the central Loire – rises up at the eastern edge of Saumur.

“This sandy, porous rock is the key to much of the Saumur wine character; it regulates water supply to the vines by immediately absorbing excess water and retaining it for use in the driest periods. Vines growing in tuffeau-rich soils rarely suffer from excess water stress but also benefit from dry, free-draining soils.” – wine-searcher.com

Saumur feels only a slight influence from the ocean 100 miles away to the west. In summer, the slow-moving Loire river does little to combat high temperatures. Ah, now I understand how the region is similar to the East Coast – we don’t have the same soils, but we suffer through hot and humid summers!

The wine — 2016 Domaine Le Petit Saint Vincent Saumur Champigny
Fourth generation Dominique Joseph farms his family estate in Varrains organically and without the use of herbicides. Vineyards are located on rolling hills of clay and limestone soils layered over the tuffeau bedrock. Wines are produced as naturally as possible.

My tasting notes: I was expecting an obviously herbaceous or green pepper quality to this wine. Surprise! Neither one dominated the profile. Bright garnet red, the wine has a black cherry and blackberry nose with hints of smoke, earth and violet. On the palate, clove and rosemary enter the frame and yes, a mild ripe green pepper far, far in the background. Ground black pepper and fennel prevail on a long finish. With medium+ acidity, this Cab Franc is ready to schmooze most food it meets. This wine is definitely not a hit-you-over-the-head Cab Franc like you’d find in warm climates. It’s elegant and, with a little more time in bottle, potentially supple. Decant or aerate for an hour or so before drinking.

The pairing – Polenta squares with mushroom ragu

With some trepidation, I chose a vegetarian meal to pair with my Saumur-Champigny.

I say that, because the recommended pairings are red meat, grilled meats, roast and game. I rarely eat red meat, don’t currently own a grill, and game is a foreign concept to this East Coast girl who grew up in the New York City ‘burbs. Chicken and turkey are my go-to meats, but this time, I decided to make ‘room – mushrooms, that is.

Mushrooms can give a dish the savory (umami) flavor of meat. But would this dish have enough fat and protein to bind with the astringent tannins that cause that “grippy” sensation in some red wines?

Following is the slightly modified, Italian recipe for polenta squares with mushroom ragu from The Essential Mediterranean Cookbook(Thunder Bay Press, 2001).

Ingredients

• 2 cups vegetable stock or water
• 1 cup polenta
• ¼ oz. butter
• ¾ cup grated Parmesan
• ¼ oz. dried Porcini mushrooms
• 1 lb. brown mushrooms
• ½ cup olive oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh oregano
• ½ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 tbsp. balsamic vinegar
• ¼ cup grated Parmesan, extra

Instructions

1. Grease an 8-inch square pan.
2. Cook polenta in vegetable stock or water according to package directions. Remove from heat and stir in butter and Parmesan. Spread the mixture into the pan and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
3. Soak the dried Porcini mushrooms in ½ cup water for 10 minutes. Reserve 1/3 cup of the liquid.
4. Wipe brown mushrooms with a damp cloth. Thickly slice and fry along with the Porcini mushrooms for 4-5 minutes in 1/3 cup olive oil in a large pan. Remove, heat remaining oil and cook onion and garlic over medium heat for 2-3 minutes, until transparent.
5. Add reserved Porcini soaking water, bay leaf, thyme and oregano to the pan. Cook for 2 minutes. Return mushrooms to the pan, add parsley and vinegar, and cook over medium heat for 1 minute or until nearly dry. Remove the bay leaf and check the seasoning.
6. Sprinkle the extra Parmesan over the polenta and heat under broiler for 10 minutes or until lightly browned and cheese has melted. Cut into four squares.
7. Place a square in the center of each serving plate and top with the mushroom mixture. Garnish with black pepper.

I served this dish with a side salad of green beans, parboiled and then sautéed in onion and garlic, drizzled with balsamic vinegar, and tossed with feta and toasted pine nuts.

The result? A beautiful pairing. The mushrooms were savory, and the polenta was cheesy enough to stand up to the Cab Franc. This wine loves herbs and cheese – so be generous!

Please join us July 20 for a Twitter chat about the Anjou-Saumur wine region, starting at 11 am ET. Simply follow the hashtag, #winophiles. Check out the wines and pairings offered by these fellow bloggers:

• Cindy, of Grape Experiences, gives us A Taste of the Loire: Domaine Filliatreau Saumur-Champigny 2015 and Sauteed Duck Breasts with Wild Mushrooms.
• Jeff, of FoodWineClick!, serves NOT the Easter Bunny with Wines from Anjou-Saumur.
• Payal, of Keep the Peas, offers up Angevin-oisserie: Chenin Blanc from Anjou.
• Jane, of Always Ravenous, shares What to Pair with Loire Valley Anjou-Saumur Wines.
• Wendy, of A Day in the Life on the Farm, is planning on Korean Pork Tenderloin with Cab Franc from Saumur.
• Gwendolyn, of Wine Predator, is Off to Loire: le P’tit Domaine Saumur Champigny and a Tritip Summer Salad
• Camilla, of Culinary Adventures with Camilla, shares Lamb, Two Rabbits, and Some Quail with Wines from Anjou-Saumur.