While packing for an overnight trip to the glorious Olympic mountains in northwest Washington state, I eyed the open bottle of L’Ecole No. 41 2020 Chenin Blanc Old Vines on the dining table and got to thinking.
Winemaker Marcus Rafanelli, on a Zoom call with L’Ecole’s blogging partners, mentioned how well this wine pairs with breakfast items like French toast. Hmm. What about these peanut butter sandwiches going into the picnic cooler? Or the trail mix we’re bringing along? How would they pair with the wine?
I pulled out the insulated wine tote from the cabinet. Let’s find out, I decided. (Please note that while the wine for this post was provided, opinions are my own.)
Old soldiers never die
Family-owned L’Ecole No. 41 is located in Walla Walla, Washington, in the southeast corner of the state. Founded in 1983, L’Ecole was the third winery established in the Walla Walla Valley and focuses on producing “ultra-premium, distinctive wines that reflect the unmistakable typicity of Washington State and the unique terroir of our Walla Walla Valley vineyards.” One of the larger wineries in Walla Walla, L’Ecole produces about 40,000 cases of wine a year.
In previous posts, I’ve written about L’Ecole’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Semillon, Seven Hills Syrah, Cabernet Franc/Merlot blend, and Columbia Valley Merlot.
Walla Walla is mainly a red valley – 95% of vineyards are planted to red grapes. For most whites, L’Ecole goes to vineyard partners elsewhere in eastern Washington. Chenin Blanc is the only wine that L’Ecole makes from grapes grown in the Yakima Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area). L’Ecole has been making this wine since 1987. Grapes are from three vineyards located on the southern, downward-facing slopes of Rattlesnake Hills: Willard Farms, Upland Vineyard, and Phil Church.
Much of the Chenin Blanc in the Yakima Valley was pulled out in favor of other, more popular white varieties. But these old vines are survivors. Veterans of more than 40 vintages, they grow and thrive in the super-fine, wind-blown material called loess that covers the Yakima Valley’s granitic soil. The dry eastern Washington climate, known for its warm, sunny days and cool nights, suits them just fine.
“These old, gnarly Chenin Blanc vines are like soldiers,” explained Constance Savage, L’Ecole’s general manager and COO. “Vines this old produce consistent fruit year after year.” Their roots reach deep for nutrients and water. This means they aren’t as vulnerable to vintage variations as younger vines and require less management.
“The 2020 vintage is superb for white wine,” Constance noted.
Finicky in the cellar
Thanks to the grape’s naturally high acidity, Chenin Blanc is a blank slate for winemakers. It can be made dry or sweet, still or sparkling. In Vouvray and elsewhere in the Loire Valley of France, winemakers tend to ferment the white unoaked – a style that L’Ecole follows for its own Chenin Blanc.
Though versatile, the grape takes a certain touch and attention to detail in the cellar – a challenge, but one that Marcus enjoyed in making his first Chenin wine.
To retain and enhance the wine’s aromatics, grapes were picked early in the morning and the fruit kept cool until gentle pressing without much exposure to oxygen. After the grape must settled overnight, the juice was fermented to a stainless-steel tank.
Marcus needed a way to tone down the grape’s “bracing” high acidity. He solved that problem by converting a third of the fermenting grapes from harsh malic to softer lactic acid through malolactic fermentation. This process adds weight to the finished wine and depth to the palate. The wine also rested sur lie (on its spent yeast) in the tank before filtration and bottling to soften the mouthfeel.
- My tasting notes: Fragrant apple and white blossoms on the nose, followed by a citrusy palate of grapefruit, lemon, and lime ending on a pleasantly tannic note. High acidity and long finish. Alcohol: 13%. SRP: $17. Balanced and a steal at this price.
Everything in the picnic cooler – peanut butter sandwiches, dried fruit and nuts, cheese and crackers – was a successful match to this wine. How could it be otherwise when you’ve got a precise, vibrant Chenin Blanc as fresh as the outdoors and stunning mountain views? We returned home with an empty bottle.
But just to demonstrate the wine’s adaptability as a pairing partner, please note that prior to leaving, I poured the wine to taste alongside Chicken Veronique ala Florence, with garlicky green beans and quinoa/mango salsa. That too was yummy! Mushrooms and grapes in the chicken dish paired nicely with the wine’s soft mouthfeel and tangy bite.
Chenin Blanc is less known than other white varieties. Consumers may not be aware that this variety ages well and can improve in the bottle for 10-12 years or more. Over time, this wine is likely to develop more nuanced flavors and a rounder mouthfeel. I’m saving a second sample to find out!