Greco di Tufo from the rich volcanic and clay soils of Campania (#ItalianFWT)

There are more than 2,000 Italian indigenous grapes, and approximately 300 of them are currently in production. Whoa! That’s a lot of diversity – more than any other country can boast.  

For those of you goal-minded readers inclined to compile lists, here is one to consider: Taste every wine produced from a native Italian grape. I’m just geeky enough to consider this challenge myself!

For this month’s Italian Food, Wine and Travel chat, Marcia from Joy of Wine chose “Italy’s Native Wine Grapes.” She outlines some of the native white varieties throughout Italy in her invitation post. We’ll be talking about these wines on Twitter this Saturday, 6/4, starting at 8 am PT/11 am ET. Everyone is welcome! Simply follow the #ItalianFWT hashtag.

A Southern Italy superstar

About 30 miles east of Naples, in the hills surrounding Avellino, is the small town of Tufo, named for the volcanic rock that underlies the soil in this region of Campania. Here is where you find Greco di Tufo, a grape that thrives in the hillside vineyards surrounding this town. Greco di Tufo has its own DOCG, and while it is a clone of Calabria’s Greco Bianco, it isn’t the same grape.  

It is believed that both of these ancient grapes – Greco di Tufo and Greco Bianco – were brought to Italy from Thessaly, Greece, in the first century BC. Late-ripening Greco di Tufo develops its full body and flavor profile from growing in the sunny warmth of southern Italy, at an elevation high enough to preserve its refreshing acidity.

As for its renowned perfume and minerality, however – well, locals say that’s due to the mineral-rich mix of tufo and clay soils. Don’t get this tufo confused with limestone tufa. Tufo is made from the ash ejected from a volcanic eruption and compacted over the years.

Source: wine-searcher

Leading the revival of ancient varieties

The 10-generation Mastroberardino family is largely responsible for the post-World War II revival of winemaking in Campania. In particular, Mastroberardino is a champion of native grape varieties.

In 1996, the Italian government selected Mastroberardino to start the Villa dei Misteri project inside the Pompeii excavations. The goal of this project is to preserve ancient grapes and capture the style of wine made during the Roman empire.

Antonio Mastroberardino returned from World War II to find his family’s wine estate in ruin. He replanted existing vineyards and purchased the best available land to expand their holdings. But rather than plant international varieties, Mastroberardino focused on bringing back nearly extinct grapes, including three – Fiano, Greco di Tufo, and Aglianico (Taurasi).

At one point, the Mastroberardino family business accounted for more than half of the region’s production and more than 90 percent of the Taurasi DOCG output. The modern winery produces roughly 150,000 cases annually.

Two years ago, I featured a Coda di Volpe from Mastroberardino on this blog.

Source: wine-searcher

The wine: 2019 Mastroberardino Greco di Tufo DOCG
100% Greco di Tufo

Produced from Mastroberardino’s Tufo and Petruro Irpino estates, the grapes for this wine are grown in predominantly clay and calcareous soil on vines with southeast exposure at an average altitude of 1,500 feet above sea level. Hand harvested and fermented in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks and bottle aged for at least one month before release.

My tasting notes: Straw yellow in color. Light perfumy flowers and Meyer lemon on the nose. Palate is round with a mix of Meyer lemon, orange zest and not-unpleasant bitter almond, finishing on a note of minerality. Medium+ acidity. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 12.5%. Price: $22.

The pairing: I stayed in southern Italy for the pairing, choosing this 30-minute Calabrian Chile Shrimp & Chickpea Stew. The secret to this dish is to add as much, or as little, chili paste as you like. I didn’t have Calabrian chili paste, so I used about two teaspoons of Chipotle pepper adobo sauce. I also substituted scallions for the green onions because that’s what I had on hand. Fast, easy and super yummy!

To round out the meal, I added a simple arugula salad with shredded turkey, thinly sliced strawberries and shaved parmesan cheese, dressed with equal parts olive oil and squeezed lemon, sea salt and ground pepper. Because the wine is distinctive without being pushy, it didn’t overwhelm the food. Each complemented the other.

Looking for tips and pairings for native Italian whites? The Italian Food, Wine and Travel bloggers have got you covered!

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• Culinary Adventures with Camilla shares Pasta al Tartufo + Terredora di Paolo Fiano di Avellino 2019
• Gwendolyn Alley Wine Predator explores Albana, Boschera, Erbaluce, Incrocio Bruni, Maceratino: Rare Italian White Grapes Plus Pairings
• My Full Wine Glass discusses Greco di Tufo from the rich volcanic and clay soils of Campania
• Vino Travels posts The Indigenous Whites of Campania with La Capranera Falanghina
• Avvinare pours White Wines from Lazio
• Grapevine Adventures talks about How Aging Maximises the Unique Characters of Trebbiano Spoletino
• Grape Experiences spends A Southern Italian Afternoon: Greco di Tufo Feudi di San Gregorio 2020 with Spaghetti Pomodoro
• Wineivore writes Orvieto White Wines with Umbrian Antipasti Misti
• Joy of Wine is Exploring Italy’s Native White Grapes: Erbaluce, Bellone, Verdeca