Golden wine from a golden land – South Africa (#WinePW)

“Golden” was how my friend Kathy described South Africa, her homeland. Sunlight playing on South Africa’s varied terrain lends a golden hue to the entire landscape, she would say.

I haven’t been there – but the Reserve Chardonnay I purchased for this month’s Wine Pairing Weekend (#WinePW) is sheer gold in the glass. Hope you can follow our Twitter chat to share your own thoughts on South African wines this Saturday, June 8, starting at 11 am ET. Simply use the hashtag.

A bit of history

South Africa has a long wine history dating back over 350 years. Vines from Europe were first planted in 1655. By 1709, there were 70,000 acres of vineyards around Cape Town. Sailors rounding the Cape of Good Hope stopped regularly to replenish supplies and stock up on wine. 

But the country’s wine industry languished during the years of international sanctions against apartheid. When the system ended in 1994, producers had to work hard to improve quality and be able to complete globally.

Technology lagged behind other wine regions. On top of that, virus infections during the 1990s meant many producers had to start from scratch by replanting healthy vine stock. Red varieties, in particular – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah – flourished as a result of this replanting. In 1986, 80% of vineyards were planted to white varieties. Now, it’s closer to parity between reds (including Pinotage) and whites – mostly Chenin Blanc (locally called “Steen”), Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Colombard. 

Some 95% of South African vineyards are located in the Western Cape, one of the world’s most diverse floral ecosystems. According to UNESCO’s World Heritage Committee, the Cape Floral Region is of “outstanding universal significance to humanity” and “one of the richest areas for plants in the world.” It has been identified as one of the world’s 18 biodiversity hotspots.

South Africa’s wine industry has embraced sustainable viticultural practices to protect this threatened natural resource, notes the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET). The industry also has had to address the legacy of racial inequality. According to WSET, they’ve done so by upskilling and facilitating black ownership of wineries.

Within the Western Cape, the Stellenbosch District is known as a hub for fine wine. The climate is Mediterranean with a cooling wind, the Benguela Current, that comes up the west coast from the Antarctic and a strong southeasterly summer wind known locally as the Cape Doctor. These winds bring air cooled by the ocean through the mountain ranges to inland vineyards and moderate summer temperatures.

The producer – DeMorgenzon Wine Estate, Stellenbosch

DeMorgenzon, “the morning sun,” is the first part of the Stellenboschkloof valley to see the sun because of its high altitude and aspects. Wendy and Hylton Appelbaum bought DeMorgenzon in 2003 and have transformed it into a 224-acre garden vineyard, where carefully selected wildflowers grow between the vines.

Soils are old and granite-based. The Appelbaums employed high-tech methods to make decisions on choice of rootstock, row and plant spacing, and row direction:

“When we bought DeMorgenzon we used satellite and historical data, as well as an examination of physical factors, to thoroughly analyse our climate (including temperature data, solar radiation patterns, rainfall records, wind and sunlight hours). We further commissioned a detailed soil analysis (nutrient status, physical properties, depth, colour and hydrological properties) drilling a few hundred holes in the process; and undertook a topographical study (altitude, slope steepness, slope form, terrain unit, openness of the landscape and drainage patterns).”

Approximately 10% of DeMorgenzon has been set aside for restoration of Renosterveld, a biodiverse habitat within the Cape Floral Region. Because of its fertile soils, much of Renosterveldhas been ploughed for agriculture, including the Cape’s best vineyards. Less than 1% of the habitat is currently protected.

The couple is also committed to playing music in the vineyards:

“We, at DeMorgenzon Estate, believe that music can influence the growth of a vine and the fruit it bears. We have played Baroque, and early Classical, music to our growing vines in the vineyard, in the winery and in the cellar all day, and every day, for the past seven years.”

The wine – 2016 DeMorgenzon Reserve Chardonnay

The 2016 Reserve Chardonnay has racked up its share of accolades, including:

• 94 Points Tim Atkin MW’s South Africa Report 2017
• Chardonnay Trophy, International Judges Trophy, and Best White Wine Overall Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show 2017 
• Stellenbosch Chardonnay Trophy and Gold medal winner International Wine Challenge 2017
• 94 points Neal Martin of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate 2016 

Geeky stuff (from the tech sheet): The vineyards benefit from cool mornings and sea breezes off False Base. Yields are typically low to moderate, and grapes are concentrated with good levels of natural acidity. In 2016, the weather was very warm, and the Chardonnay ripened rapidly with no disease or Botrytis. 

The grapes were hand-picked and whole -bunch pressed. Juice was transferred to French oak barrels with minimal settling. Fermentation occurred naturally in French oak barrels of which 35% were new. About 60% of the volume completed malolactic fermentation during an 11-month aging on the lees. The wine was bottled with minimal stabilization and clarified without filtration. 

My tasting notes: Golden with slight greenish hues. An orchard of intense ripe apples on the nose. On the palate, a mouth-watering jolt of honeysuckle and a little honey, followed by a long tropical and slightly grippy finish ending in grapefruit, pineapple, and hints of vanilla and lime. Medium body. A slam-dunk of a wine.

If you shy away from oaked Chardonnay, this one will surprise you. It is grippy right now from tannins imparted by the oak, but not oaky. This top-shelf Chardonnay was at the upper end of my typical price range, but worth it. I highly recommend cellaring this wine and serving it with your Thanksgiving dinner c in 2020. A couple of years of additional aging will mellow the tannins and enhance the honey and vanilla notes. 

The pairing – Baked chicken with tarragon mustard sauce

This pairing is definitely an example of cooking to the wine! A wine this lovely deserves respect – though the pairing doesn’t need to be gourmet. My choices this week were salmon or chicken. I was confident either would work. The sauce would be key. 

Tarragon mustard sauce (modified):
¼ cup sour cream
2 tbsp. Dijon mustard
1 tbsp. butter
1/2-1 tsp. dried tarragon
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan. Heat/whisk over low heat until heated through. Spoon warm sauce over chicken, fish or meat. Sprinkle with pepper and, if desired, additional tarragon.

Tangy sour cream proved a worthy match to the wine’s high acidity, and the wine relaxed as it embraced the creamy sauce. Served with roasted red potatoes and sautéed Swiss chard. I wouldn’t change a thing. 

Here is a preview of other posts for the #WinePW Twitter chat on June 8, starting at 11 am ET:

• Camilla from the Culinary Adventures of Camilla offers A South African Braai (Rhymes with ‘Fry’) + A Trio of Chenin Blancs.
• Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm features Grilled Chicken Caesar paired with a South African Chenin Blanc.
• Lori of Dracaena Wines is Unlocking the Marvels of Nature ThroughWine.
• David of Cooking Chat shares South African Chicken with Chakalaka and Chenin Blanc.
• Deanna of Asian Test Kitchen features South African Chenin Blanc Paired with Vietnamese Food.
• Gwen of Wine Predator writes 3 Summer Wines from South Africa Shine for #CheninBlancDay #RoseDay #WinePW.
• Nicole of Somm’s Table shares A South African Pinot Feast Hamilton Russell, Tesselaarsdal, and a Glazed Pork.
• Sarah of Curious Cuisinere features South African Chutney Chicken and Chenin Blanc Pairing.
• Cynthia and Pierre of Traveling Wine Profs writes A Celebration of Wine Industry Upgrading Paired with South African Food Truck Takeout.
• Pinny of Chinese Food and Wine Pairings is sharing Spier Pinotage/Shiraz from South AfricanPlus Sliced Lamb as Wrappers.
• Jeff of FoodWineClick! features Gemaak en Gebottle Oorsprong: We’re Not in Kansas Anymore.
• Jill of L’Occasion writes Making a Meal with Wine from South Africa.
• Cindy of Grape Experiences features A Family Affair: South African Chenin Blanc with Scallops, Tomatoes and Pesto.
• Jane of Always Ravenous writes South African Chenin Blanc Paired with Shrimp,Scallops, and Mango Salsa.
• Michelle of Rockin Red Blog is sharing Wandering into June with Lubanzi Wine and #WinePW.
• Jennifer of Vino Travels is featuring Zucchini Quiche with Raats Chenin Blanc from South Africa.