Distinctively ‘laurel’ Vinho Verde delivers with seafood and salad (#WinePW)

Have you ever poured a wine, plunged your nose in the glass, and asked, “What IS that?”

All the time, right? But after a good bit of sniffing, you figure it out. “Hmmm, tree fruit. Peach, no wait, nectarine.”

This time, when I opened a Vinho Verde made from 100% Loureiro grapes, I was stumped. “OK, I’m getting wildflowers and forest in springtime. But what is this distinctive aroma?”

Turns out loureiro in Portuguese means “laurel.” According to wine-searcher, the name refers to the distinctive aroma of Loureiro berries. Genetic studies suggest this native grape is an old variety. Until the 1960s, it was mainly grown in one location, the Vale do Lima in the northern coastal part of the Minho region of Portugal. Now the grape appears in the neighboring Rias Baixas region of Spain, where it is called Loureira, and blended with that region’s signature grape, Albariño.

I have no idea what laurel smells like, but I was intrigued by the distinctive aroma wafting from my glass. This month, you can read all about Vinho Verde in the Wine Pairing Weekend posts, and if reading this in time, please join us Saturday 8/8 beginning at 8 am PT/11 am ET for a #WinePW chat about this light and often fizzy Portuguese white wine.

What is Vinho Verde?

Vinho Verde is not a grape, nor is it a blend – and while it means “green wine,” it isn’t green in color.

Vinho Verde is the biggest Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC) in Portugal – a geographically protected wine region tucked in the cool, rainy, lush northwestern corner of the country. Minho, the historical province which corresponds roughly to the Vinho Verde viticultural area, is named after the Minho river on the northern edge between Portugal and Spain. Vines grow in fertile, granite soils along the Minho and other rivers that flow from the mountains of the east to the sea.

There are nine sub-regions in the Vinho Verde DOC: Monção, Melgaço, Lima, Basto, Cávado, Ave, Amarante, Baião, Sousa and Paiva.

Yes, the name does mean “green wine,” but it translates as “young wine,” with wine being released three to six months after the grapes are harvested and usually consumed soon after bottling. A Vinho Verde may be red, white, or rosé, and sparkling, late harvest, or even brandy. The majority and the best-known Vinho Verde are white. Most of these wwines are light, crisp, and aromatic, often with a slight fizz and sometimes with a bit of residual sugar.

The characteristic fizz originally came from malolactic fermentation (conversion of harsh malic to soft lactic acid) taking place in the bottle. Vinho Verde producers fixed what some may consider a fault, but they found that consumers liked the wine’s effervescent nature. So now many of them add this slight sparkle through carbonation.  

Flavor depends on which grapes are used in a Vinho Verde wine. As Wines of Portugal explains, varieties include “floral Loureiro, steely Trajadura, mineral Arinto (known here as Pedernã), creamy and mineral Avesso, and the fine, mineral, subtly fragrant Alvarinho.”

Wet weather poses its share of challenges for Vinho Verde grapevines. Traditionally, growers trained vines on high pergolas or even on trees and telephone poles to avoid crowding and mildew in the region’s dense vegetation. Grapes are still often trained this way, especially among the many small producers, but larger estates tend toward low-training of vines on wires to enhance exposure to the limited sunshine and facilitate ripening.

The wine – 2019 “Dócil” Projecto de Dirk Niepoort Vinho Verde DOC
100% Loureiro

Niepoort is a five-generation family that has been in the business of producing Portuguese wines since it was founded by Dutch immigrants in 1842. The house specializes in Port and table wines from the Duoro Valley of northern Portugal. Until the 1980s, Niepoort purchased all of its grapes from partner growers. Now it owns quintas (estates) throughout the Douro and cultivates its own vineyards.

The producer says this about its Dócil Vinho Verde:

“The Dócil is the result of our search for a Vinho Verde which reflects the region’s terroir, with a balanced and well-rounded character, and whose vinification relies on the vibrant acidity of the Loureiro grape variety. This Loureiro stems from its traditional home, the Lima Valley, and is produced from vines growing in granitic soils. The aromatic profile of this grape is beautifully expressive, with predominant floral and mineral aromas.”

Loureiro grapes are hand-picked, and fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks for five months. Wines are bottled without malolactic fermentation.

My tasting notes: Straw yellow in color. A woodsy aroma of wildflowers with hints of orange and nectarine hits the nose immediately. On the tangy, slightly tart palate, I get mildly bitter (but not unpleasant) notes of orange rind and orange peel, a pronounced minerality, and a tingle of salinity. Medium+ acidity. Medium finish. Light, dry, barely fizzy. Alcohol: 11.5%. Price: $18.

The owner of a local wine shop recommended this Dócil for its complexity compared to other Vinho Verde wines. Though higher priced than others, “it’s what the Portuguese drink,” she said. I certainly found it balanced and with layers of flavor.  

The pairing – Seared scallops, Haricots Verts with Tahini-Lemon Dressing, easy pasta salad

There are times to eat with the toddler in a family and times to feed him first, tuck him into bed, then dine. For this month’s #WinePW focus on Vinho Verde, we four adults chose the latter – a good decision on many levels, though I’m guessing this Vinho Verde would go well with a classic children’s dinner of chicken nuggets, mac and cheese, and lima beans.

Our “adults-only” pairing was both successful and surprising. Winning the award for best match of the night were the haricots verts ala Wine Enthusiast. Tangy in a tahini-lemon dressing topped with Valencia oranges and crushed walnuts (my substitute for hazelnuts), these al dente-style green beans practically begged for another round with the Vinho Verde.

The pasta salad (with a teaspoon of Dijon mustard added to the marinade for extra zing) slipped past the seared scallops to take second place. The scallops, though yummy in a buttery lemon-garlic sauce, may have been a bit heavy for this light-bodied wine. I’d definitely go with seafood again for this pairing – just a more delicate fish and a lighter sauce.

Check out what all the #WinePW bloggers are saying about Vinho Verde:

• Camilla at Culinary Adventures with Camilla shares Foods from Around the World Paired with Pink Wines from Portugal. 
• Liz of What’s In That Bottle? is thrilled with Va Va Va Vinho Verde: the Portuguese White That Wows. 
• Robin of Crushed Grape Chronicles answers What is Vinho Verde? 5 things I didn’t know about this perfect summer wine. 
• Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm savors Tomato Poached Cod with Vinho Verde Wine. 
• Linda at My Full Wine Glass realizes that Distinctively ‘Laurel’ Vinho Verde Delivers with Seafood and Salad. 
• Nicole at Somm’s Table is loving Vinho Verde and Simple Seafood Feast. 
• Payal at Keep the Peas is pairing Sem Igual Vinho Verde with Peixe Caldine. 
• Gwendolyn at Wine Predator says Vinho Verde: A Green Wine That’s White from Portugal Paired with Tuna, Tomato, Basil, Orzo.
• Martin at ENOFYLZ Wine Blog is Pairing Maria Papoila Vinho Verde with Summer Pizza. 
• Susannah at Avvinare explains how Vinho Verde Meets Homemade Sushi. 
• Terri at Our Good Life savors Scallops, Smashed Peas and a Great Vinho Verde. 
• Pinny at Chinese Food and Wine Pairing achieves A Successful Hunt Down of a Red Vinhao Escolha from Vinho Verde DOC. 
• Cindy at Grape Experiences has been reminiscing upon last fall’s work trip where she spent A Morning Visit to Quinta da Aveleda in Vinho Verde.