Coda di Volpe from Campania’s protector of native grapes (#ItalianFWT)

European winemakers have known their fair share of hardship.

First phylloxera, a viral pest, wiped out vineyards throughout Europe in the late 19^th century. Then two world wars raged across the continent causing widespread suffering and economic upheaval.

After World War II, winemakers worked hard to regain their footing. Sometimes they banded together to form cooperatives and share resources. Sometimes a single producer led the way – Gérard Bertrand in the Languedoc and Etienne Guigal in the northern Rhône. Through grit and perseverance, these industry giants changed the course of history.

In the Campania region of southern Italy, this giant is Antonio Mastroberardino. He is widely recognized as the protector and guardian of the region’s native grapes. For the Italian Food, Wine and Travel monthly Twitter chat, I purchased a Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco, a white wine made from Coda di Volpe grapes. So pleased to find another obscure, native grape to add to my list! If reading this in time, please join us for the chat on Saturday, May 2, starting at 11 am ET. Simply follow the hashtag #ItalianFWT.

Ancient history

Historically, Campania is best known as home to Mount Vesuvius, the volcano that buried the city of Pompeii in 79 AD. (Gastronomically, the region’s reputation rests on Neapolitan pizza. Just sayin’…) That’s an image of Vesuvius as seen from Pompeii on the screen at the top.

Pompeii was a major wine center during ancient Roman times. Pompeiians had a widespread reputation for their winemaking capacity and worshipped Bacchus, the god of wine, who appears on many frescoes and archaeological fragments. Pliny the Elder, author and notable Pompeian, wrote extensively on the variety of grapes used in the region. (CBC: The Nature of Things with David Suzuki).

Vesuvio’s vineyards are located on the slopes of this still living, breathing volcano east of Naples. For years, the area was regarded as incapable of producing quality wines – that is, until Mastroberardino proved otherwise. Vesuvio was recognized as a Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) in 1983.

A modern-day hero

Mastroberardino returned from World War II to find his family’s wine estate in ruin. He replanted existing vineyards and purchased the best available land to expand their holdings. But rather than plant international varieties, Mastroberardino focused on bringing back nearly extinct grapes, including three – Fiano, Greco, and Aglianico (Taurasi) – that would become his flagship, Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) wines.

In 1996, the Italian government selected Mastroberardino to start the Villa dei Misteri project inside the Pompeii excavations. The goal of this project is to preserve ancient grapes and capture the style of wine made during the Roman empire. Grapevines were planted using ancient Roman techniques. Sales of wine made from these grapes supports research and restoration of historic viticultural sites in Campania.

Today, the 10-generation Mastroberardino family owns 14 estates across Campania. The region also boasts numerous boutique, family-run wineries defining their own style of Campanian wines and building on the success of pioneer Antonio Mastroberardino.

The wine – 2017 Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco DOC

Coda di Volpe is a white grape used to make medium- to full-bodied wines since ancient times in Campania. The name means “tail of the fox” and refers to the way the grapes hang in a long bunch resembling a fox’s bushy tail.

Both red and white wines that qualify for the Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio name must have a 1 to 1.5 percent higher alcohol level than the basic Vesuvio DOC. “Lacryma Christi,” means “tears of Christ.” There are lots of legends surrounding the origin of this name. According to one version, Jesus cried when he found a corner of Heaven stolen by Lucifer. The wine is named for the grapes that grew where his tears fell.

Grapes are grown in volcanic soils and fermented in stainless steel. The mountainous Vesuvio region boasts a cool Mediterranean climate – cooler than one might expect this far south; the region usually sees some of the last harvest dates in Italy.

Sources: wine.com; wine-searcher

My tasting notes: Pale yellow in color. Floral and apricot aromas and a low-acid palate. Mild, pleasant, medium-bodied wine. More aromatic than Chenin Blanc but similar buttery mouthfeel. Alcohol: 12.5%. Price: $20.99.

The pairings – (1) Baked haddock and (2) Spaghetti alla Puttanesca

The spouse and I started out with panko-coated, thyme-seasoned baked haddock. This mild fish complemented the mild character of the wine. With this wine’s heft, it might also support salmon or tuna. I’m thinking sushi.

Next, I cooked up Spaghetti alla Puttanesca, an Italian classic translated as “working girl style” spaghetti. It’s possible I chose this dish for its name. Possible. For tomato-based pairings, I usually favor a food-friendly Sangiovese (like a Chianti Classico) or high-acid Barbera. But I have to say the Spaghetti alla Puttanesca – with good-quality Italian tomatoes simmered with olives, capers, anchovies (I substituted sardines), spices, and a generous amount of garlic – was special with this white wine. The sauce lifted the acid in the wine, and the wine toned down the acid in the sauce. Give it a go and you’ll see what I mean.  

Please check out the varied posts below from the entire #ItalianFWT group of bloggers and join us May 2!

• Camilla at Culinary Adventures with Camilla shares Melanzane a Scarpone + Cantine Astroni Gragnano Penisola Sorrentina 2018.
• Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm pairs Polpette and Terredora di Paolo Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso.
• David at Cooking Chat matches Salmon with Pesto and Orzo with Wine from Campania.
• Pinny at Chinese Food and Wine Pairings adds Campania’s Donnachiara Greco di Tufo Paired with Fish and Chips.
• Gwendolyn at Wine Predator shares 3 Wines from Campania’s Feudi Di San Gregorio Paired With Pizza and Wild Boar Ragu.
• Cindy at Grape Experiences writes Exclusive to Campania: Coda di Volpe Bianco, the Tail of the Fox.
• Linda at My Full Wine Glass posts A Coda di Volpe Wine from Campania’s Protector of Native Grapes.
• Jen at Vino Travels joins with The Lacryma Christi Wines of Campania.
• Terri at Our Good Life shares Chicken Pot Pie and A Beautiful Wine from Campania for a Spring Day.
• Katarina at Grapevine Adventures muses Campania Makes You Dream Big About Amazing Wine.
• Nicole at Somm’sTable dishes on Donnachiara Taurasi and Lamb Spezzatino.
• Jeff at Food Wine Click! writes about Vini Alois: Champions of Campania’s Native Grapes.
• Rupal at Syrah Queen brings NYC Somm Jordan Salcito Making A Splash With Campania Wines.
• Lauren at The Swirling Dervish adds Mastroberardino Greco di Tufo: White Wine from Campania’s Volcanic Arch.
• Lynn at Savor the Harvest writes about Italy – Organic Wine and Rare Grapes In Campania.
• And Susannah, our host, at Avvinare is Taking Another Look At Falanghina from Campania.