Turning down a gravel road toward one of the newest Finger Lakes wineries, I feast my eyes first on long and slender Seneca Lake about a mile ahead. Then I notice the stark-white building at the end of the road, close to the lake’s eastern shoreline.
Here’s where I find Bruce Murray, a former newspaperman and media executive, who chooses to live his third act as owner and president of Boundary Breaks. Crazy, right? That’s what some might say. The investment is substantial and the market is glutted. Why not spend one’s retirement years playing golf and soaking up the rays?
Not Murray’s style. Since producing his first vintage of Riesling – 1,000 cases – in 2011, Boundary Breaks has grown steadily. Murray is now producing 6,000 cases annually and selling Riesling in 25 states and three foreign countries. His 10-year goal is 25,000 cases. He has 32 acres of vineyards planted – mostly to Riesling, but also Gewürztraminer and a few red varieties – and wants to get to 100 acres.
“Everything that can go wrong, hasn’t yet,” he reports.
As a result of his good luck, careful planning, and business savvy, Murray is now focused on distribution outside the Finger Lakes region. “Most places are tasting-room centric,” he notes. “It’s essential to have a tasting room, but you’re limited in growth unless you distribute. It becomes harder and harder to make ends meet just with a tasting room.”
And what better Finger Lakes wine to market than Riesling, the king of grapes in this cool-climate region? Murray is determined to produce great Riesling, like the Germans are known to do, and sell it around the country – including California and Texas.
“If you want to buy Riesling in Texas, you want to buy Riesling from us – it’s what we do well,” he explains. “I’m the first producer in the Finger Lakes to say, ‘I’m all in on Riesling.’”
Murray and his vineyard manager take a clone-specific approach to dry and reserve Riesling production. First and foremost, they strive to get the grapes ripe. “We get the fruit almost as ripe as we can and then make different styles,” Murray explains. “Our biggest challenge is mold. If you’re not spraying fungicide, you have to pick the fruit early. You need ripe fruit to make good wine.”
To illustrate, Murray pours four Rieslings to taste. Each is produced in a different style:
- 2016 Dry Riesling 239. So much tropical fruit on the nose in a cool-climate Riesling that I can’t believe it. Lively acidity but not tart. Long and slow finish. Drink now, or give it more bottle time to fully express itself.
- 2015 Ovid Line North (OLN). OLN is a blend of four clones. A medium-dry style for all palettes. Characteristic petrol on the nose. Some sweetness on the palate but balanced by acidity.
- 2014 Riesling Reserve 198. “In 2011, we said, ‘let’s remove some of the fruit, harvest later, and produce a German Spätlese [meaning “late harvest”] style of Riesling, low in alcohol,” Murray says. “I was at a Thai restaurant. It had a big wine list. On there were all Rieslings.” The 198 would be perfect for Thai, Mexican, or other spicy food. Medium-sweet but balanced. Gorgeous round mouthfeel.
- 2016 Riesling Ice Wine. Sunlight dries and dehydrates the grapes for this ice wine. (Murray has the pictures to prove it!) “Air is efficient to get the water out,” he notes, “You get higher [sugar] concentration and resultant flavors.” Ultraviolet light causes something known by food scientists as the Maillard reaction, a breakdown of sugars and amino acids that results in new and often savory flavors. This same reaction causes your seared steak or caramelized onions to taste extra yummy. Tropical fruit, caramel, butterscotch, and honey. Reminiscent of Crème Brulee.
By the way, wondering where Boundary Breaks gets its name? At the northern and southern boundaries of the vineyard, ancient glacial runoff cut deep channels or “breaks” in the landscape.
Great wine. Good packaging. Good distribution. Boundary Breaks Rieslings have twice been named to Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 Wines in World. What else is needed to not only survive but also thrive in this business?
“Patience,” Murray says.
Pennsylvania residents: Boundary Breaks 2014 Dry Riesling 239 and 2016 Riesling Ice Wine are available in select premium state stores. Others may be ordered.