Bargain-hunting for a Côtes de Bordeaux celebration wine (#Winophiles)

MerlotMe month is over. Long live Merlot!

That’s how I felt after locating a 100% Merlot from Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux for this month’s French Winophiles theme: Affordable Bordeaux for the Holidays. I was on a quest for a bargain-priced, red Côtes de Bordeaux – a Merlot-driven wine from a hilly area on Bordeaux’s right bank.

In 2009, four regions – Côtes de Blaye, Côtes de Cadillac, Côtes de Castillon and Côtes de Francs – lobbied successfully to market themselves under the Côtes de Bordeaux umbrella. In 2016, Sainte-Foy Bordeaux joined the group. Together, they cover nearly 30,000 acres of vines and represent 10 percent of total Bordeaux production. Stylistically, they have little in common, but now they may use the Côtes de Bordeaux Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) on their labels with their individual name as a prefix.

Back in January, when the French Winophiles explored “What’s New in Bordeaux?” as the first topic for the year, I searched online for the less serious side of Bordeaux and landed on a Francs Côtes de Bordeaux that was aged in stainless steel to let the fruit shine through. Earthy with just the right amount of structure and fruity without being jammy, this Merlot blend was old world in style to me.

This time around, I relied on Carol, a trusty local retailer specializing in European wines, to point me in the right direction. It so happens she was opening a Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux for a wine tasting at her shop. I popped over to swish and take a swallow. Deliciously fruity and smooth and definitely a bargain at $21. Sold!

The region and the winery

In the 18th century, Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac, the Knight of Lamothe-Cadillac, was sent as a governor to French-owned Louisiana. A wine connoisseur, he brought a Cadillac red wine with him. His name was given to the car some 150 years later.

Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux are red wines made specifically in the area around Cadillac, to the west of Entre-deux-Mers. Merlot is the main variety, “producing relatively well-structured wines, which are supple, yet approachable at an early age,” according to Wine Enthusiast magazine.

The region consists of approximately 2,500 acres of vineyards. Ancient river deposits of sandstone and clay on the slopes along the Garonne River are best suited to Merlot. The river moderates the maritime climate.

Domaine Les Carmels is owned by a young couple, Yorick and Sophie Lavaud, who are committed to organic farming. In 2010, the Lavauds took over 12+ acres of land made up of multicolored clay soils on a limestone bedrock with a gravelly surface. “Simple and natural” is their mantra.

“Instead of using chemical ways, we use nature as a partner: diversity of fauna and flora.”

Yorick is “an agricultural engineer in love with nature.” Sophie handles marketing and administration for the estate, and she’s an equal partner in decision-making. The couple makes their own herbal teas and compost teas to treat the vines. For optimal biodiversity, Yorick also planted an orchard with about 50 different tree varieties and a family vegetable garden.

Pruning takes place during the growing season to remove unwanted new shoots and thin leaves, and the vines are placed on high trellising. The goal is to limit the number of bunches per vine so the plant will concentrate its energy and sugars in just a few bunches.

Sources: Wine Enthusiast, Wine-searcher

The wine – 2020 Domaine Les Carmels Les Caprices, Cadillac Côtes De Bordeaux AOC
100% Merlot, certified organic

Hand-harvested grapes are picked at their optimum ripeness and fermented from four to six months in stainless-steel vats, without oak, to highlight the Cadillac terroir and purity of the fruit. Work in the cellar is done through a gravity system. No sulfur added. See the tech sheet for further details.

My tasting notes: Deep purplish ruby in color. Fruity nose of mostly black cherry and black currants. Black cherry and black licorice on the palate upfront, with a hint of mocha on a medium+ finish. Medium acidity. Smooth but not too complex. With no added sulfur and without oak aging, this wine was released young and is designed to drink now. Alcohol: 14.5%. Price: $21.

Suggested pairings: As mentioned in the title for this post, I was looking for a Côtes de Bordeaux as a celebration wine. The occasion was my son-in-law’s birthday, and by request, my daughter was cooking a lamb bolognese. Les Caprices is both fruity and structured enough to hold its own with a hearty lamb dish. This 100% Merlot is also versatile – we finished off the bottle with grilled, cheddar-cheese sandwiches and the pairing was just as amiable. But… if you’re someone who prefers a special wine for a special day, you might want to look for a Côtes de Bordeaux that has a more complex flavor profile.

Check out these great ideas for affordable Bordeaux from the French Winophiles:

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