Back to the Jura (virtually), for Crémant this time around (#Winophiles)

Maybe the Jura wine region of eastern France appeals to me because it’s remote. Located in a narrow valley between Burgundy and Switzerland, the region has developed its own winemaking practices in isolation from outside influences.

Or maybe the threat of spring and autumn frosts explains why Jura winemaking is so thrilling to imagine. The main grape-growing area lies in the foothills of the Jura Mountains to the west, at an average altitude of 1,000 feet. The majority of vines are planted on south-facing slopes to take advantage of the sunshine and trained high off the ground (using the Guyot system).

Or maybe I’m so pleased to be back in the Jura for the next French Winophiles event because I longed for Comté (pictured above), a tangy and nutty regional cheese that pairs hand-in-glove with this region’s wines.

If reading this in time, you’re invited to join us for the Twitter chat about Jura wines on Saturday 10/17, starting at 8 am PT/11 am ET. Simply follow the #Winophiles hashtag.

Vin Jaune featured in Jura Geekery, Part II

Reviewing Past Footsteps

This journey began a year ago, when the Winophiles set a course to explore some of the lesser-known grapes of France. We could go anywhere in the country for this event. I somehow ended up in Jura, the home of the native Poulsard, Trousseau, and Savagnin grapes, as well as plenty of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

In Part I of this wine geekery, I tasted an Arbois red blend from the Jura. Of Jura’s five AOCs, or subregions, Arbois is the most prolific – for reds, whites, and rosés. About 70 percent of Jura’s red wines are produced under the Arbois name. A traditional Arbois blend consists of Poulsard, Trousseau, and Pinot Noir. If, like me, you love, love, love light-bodied, cold-climate reds with zingy high acidity, Arbois is the wine for you. The Arbois I opened had bright, cherry-candy aromas with a hint of strawberry and a lip-smacking palate of sour cherry candy, finishing on an earthy fennel note.

In Part II, I returned to the Jura – virtually, bien sûr – to explore Vin Jaune (yellow wine), a sherry-like, golden wine made from the Savagnin grape in an oxidative winemaking process known as sous voile (“under the veil”). The wine is aged for two to three years in a barrel that is not topped off. A layer of yeast, similar to Sherry’s flor, appears on the surface and partially protects the wine from further oxidation. The Vin Jaune had aromas of honey, toasted walnuts, and burnt apple, and a dry, buttery palate with a hint of bitter almond. Complex, savory flavors – suggestive of spicy chicken broth liberally seasoned with paprika – unveil themselves slowly. Yup, it’s not for everybody, but it’s unique!

Map of Jura by DalGobboM¿!i? – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0.

The Journey Continues

For the return trip to Jura, I was determined to try a Crémant.

Sparkling wine has been made in this region since the 18th century. The Crémant du Jura production area is identical to that of Côtes du Jura, its counterpart for still wines, and includes 105 communes covering a distance of about 50 miles from north to south.

Roughly one in four bottles of wine from the Jura is sparkling. They’re made in the Méthode Traditionelle, same as Champagne, and must have a minimum of 50% Chardonnay.

Domaine Pêcheur began producing wine in 1976. Starting out with just a couple of acres, Christian and Patricia Pêcheur now own 20 acres of vineyards on the hillside slopes of Jura. Vines are 35 to 50 years old. Grapes for the Crémant and still white wines are planted in rocky, pebbly soil rich in dolomite, a type of limestone. Vineyards are farmed organically – pesticides and herbicides are not used – but the domaine is not certified organic. Grapes are hand-harvested. 

The Wine – NV Domaine Pêcheur Crémant du Jura AOC
100% Chardonnay

Whole-cluster grapes are fermented in stainless steel using indigenous yeasts. The juice is pumped over and malolactic fermentation (converting harsh malic to soft lactic acid) occurs in the tank. Finished wine is aged in oak for a minimum of 24 months and in the bottle, on their lees (spent yeast cells), for three to six months.

My tasting notes: Yellow in color. The nose is rich in Honeycrisp apple aroma, like standing in a room of freshly picked, cut-open apples. On the palate, I get Granny Smith apples upfront with lemon and lime entering on the mid-palate and mineral notes. Small perlage. Dry, crisp, and medium-bodied. Buttery mouthfeel but not bready like Champagne or Cava. Medium acidity. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 11.5%. Price: $28.  

Suggested pairing: As expected, Comté cheese was a surefire winner with this crisp, dry Crémant. Gruyere, cheddar, or any flavorful, mild cheese would fare well, too, as would anything made with cheese – grilled cheese sandwiches, for example, a fall favorite of ours. Actually, this juicy Jura bubbly hummed along happily with everything it was offered, especially my daughter’s savory Pasta with Etruscan Sauce, made with sun-dried tomatoes, black olives, parsley, and garlic, and served alongside mild chicken sausage. The wine also nodded in agreement to the slightly sweet, slivered apple and kale salad. Yum!

Does the Jura entice you? Wink Lorch has written extensively this region. Check out her site and also click on the following links:

9 thoughts on “Back to the Jura (virtually), for Crémant this time around (#Winophiles)”

  1. Now that’s the second sparkling wine from Jura I’ve read about this morning. I’m definitely missing the boat. I was so excited to find a red wine. Now I need to find a sparkling. And that bowl of pasta with the sausage looks amazing. Thanks for sharing!

    1. Hi Christy! I sourced the Arbois and the Vin Jaune through the PA state store system of all places. Now that I live in Washington state, I’ve forged a relationship with a good local wine store that finds wines for me.

  2. I have not had a sparkling from this region! I need to remedy that! I love your tasting note ” like standing in a room of freshly picked, cut-open apples.”
    I can imagine that the Cremant went beautifully with that dish (your daughter’s dishes look amazing!). I am a big fan of sparkling wines with a meal, cleaning your palate to make each bite like the first! We actually had a conversation about that during our Jura dinner outside with my friend RuBen!
    I’m thinking this might go with that Comte mac & cheese I mentioned to David!

  3. Good for you that you got to taste the Arbois last year and the Cremant du Jura this time. Like how you began your blog with the Maybe’s. I love Comté too. Great pairings!

  4. This sounds like a lovely bubbly – I really tend to like the cremants from this region a lot. And you’re so right, they work beautifully with Comté cheese. That pasta dish looks so yummy as well!

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