Back to Cotes du Rhone for a French GSM blend (#Winophiles)

Since moving to Washington state, I’ve grown accustomed to seeing locally produced Rhône Valley red blends on retail shelves and at winery tastings – so much so I may sometimes forget these blends actually originate in southern France.

OK, perhaps I exaggerate a little. It’s true, though, that Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, the classic trio commonly known by their blending abbreviation, GSM, have found a home in Washington vineyards. In the dry climate east of the Cascades, these grapes soak up the hot summer sun and withstand the cold winters, producing fruity wines with that characteristically high Washington wine acidity.

But I do digress.

Back to France and “Rhône Valley Diversity,” the theme for this month’s French Winophiles chat on Saturday, 1/21, on Twitter, starting at 8 am PT/11 am ET. You can follow along by using the #Winophiles hashtag.

Digging through my stash, I located a Côtes du Rhône that I received as a sample a couple of years ago. Perfect for this wide-ranging theme.

Please note that while the wine for this post was provided, opinions are my own.

The region and the producer

Côtes du Rhône is the name for a popular winemaking region in the southern Rhône Valley of eastern France. A small proportion of the region’s wines are whites. Mostly, Côtes du Rhône is known and loved for its medium-bodied, fruity red blends based on Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre (GSM). Grenache almost always dominates a GSM blend. Syrah contributes structure and spices, while Mourvèdre brings dark berry, chocolate notes and intense color.

A Mediterranean climate of hot summers and mild winters ensures rich, bright fruit and wines that tend to be high in alcohol.

The Autard family specializes in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Côtes-du-Rhône wines. Paul Autard began the family winemaking business in Courthézon by turning an old farm into a vineyard. Courthézon is a village in the Vaucluse department and Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region northeast of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Autard’s vines are 40 to 95 years old and planted in two different types of soil: clay-limestone and rolled pebbles. In 2005, the family built a new and improved winemaking cellar.

Jean-Paul Autard has been running the family estate since the age of 17 and is now passing on his knowledge to his two children: Pauline, the oldest, who manages the commercial part of the estate, and Jules, her younger brother, who takes care of the vineyard.

The wine: 2018 Domaine Paul Autard Côtes-du-Rhône
70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre

Fermented and aged in stainless steel.

• My tasting notes: Ruby red in color. Fruity aromas of cherry and black cherry with some anise and garrigue spirces, too. Red licorice attacks the palate upfront, followed by tart (but not unpleasant) cherry and ending with black cherry. Medium+ acidity. Medium+ finish. A bit of “gumminess” but mostly the tannins are smoothed out. Alcohol: 14.5%. Average price: $16.

• Pairing notes: At first, the pairing partner for this Côtes-du-Rhône was a sliced meat gyro and a smoked eggplant gyro from our local Greek restaurant. Unfortunately, the wine was too overpowering for these sandwiches. Plan B, a charcuterie plate featuring salami, cheeses, nuts, dried fruit and dark chocolate, was a better choice for this high-alcohol red blend. I’ve been veering away from meats and cheeses, but sometimes the wine insists on having its own way.

If you favor a fruit-forward style, this affordable Côtes-du-Rhône is for you. A year and a half ago, I tasted a savory 2016 Domaine Grand Veneur Côtes-du-Rhône (70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre). I noted herbs, spice, black cherry and cranberry aromas on the nose. The palate was herby with cranberry and a generous amount of ground black pepper. Ends in a long spicy finish and hint of chocolate.

The producer of this wine picks and ferments the organic grapes separately, with the Grenache fermenting in concrete vats. Syrah and Mourvèdre are aged in four-year-old French oak barrels. Soil and climate are the same as in the Paul Autard GSM, so perhaps the grapes and/or the treatment contribute to differences between these two Côtes-du-Rhône wines. Check out my post for more details on the Grand Veneur blend.

Comparisons to Washington GSM

While I didn’t taste Côtes-du-Rhône and Washington GSM blends side by side, I returned to my previous posts and tasting notes for two locally produced wines to see how they compare.

• 2016 Latta Latta GSM
  60% Grenache, 26% Syrah, 14% Mourvèdre

Andrew Latta sources his Rhône varieties from the Walla Walla Valley of southeastern Washington. In his Seattle wine cellar, he ferments the grapes 55% whole cluster/45% whole berry on native yeast and punches down by hand before pressing. The wine is aged in neutral barrels for 22 months. Tasting notes mostly align with those for the Paul Autard Côtes-du-Rhône: black cherry, earth, garrigue, hints of fennel and cinnamon. Yet this wine is more powerful and complex, though it finishes at lower alcohol: 14.1%.

• 2019 Eight Bells Southern Voyage
  58% Grenache, 23% Mourvèdre, 19% Syrah

Eight Bells, another Seattle winery, uses grapes from Red Willow and Boushey vineyards, two of the most respected vineyards in the state. Lighter in body than the other Rhône blends I’ve tasted, even though the alcohol is a whopping 14.9%. Red fruit, cooked meat and black pepper are the dominant tasting notes.

Looking for Rhône Valley diversity? Check out the posts listed below:

• Beurre Noisette Salmon Sprinkled with Belper Knolle + A Syrah from Crozes-Hermitage from Culinary Cam
• Relaxing with a Cotes du Rhone and Rummikub from A Day in the Life on the Farm
• Back to Cotes du Rhone for a French GSM blend from My Full Wine Glass
• For Rhone Diversity Look Across the Street from Food Wine Click!
• Tavel Rosé: Tasting and Food Pairings from Always Ravenous
• Sipping the sweet side of the Rhône with a Rasteau Vin Doux Naturel from Crushed Grape Chronicles
• A Range of Côtes du Rhône Wines Provide Delightful Diversity Paired with Citrus Salad and Cassoulet from Wine Predator Gwendolyn Alley 
• A Closer Look at Two Rhône Valley Crus: Crozes-Hermitage and Cairanne from Jill Barth
• Chateau La Nerthe Les Cassagnes de La Nerthe Blanc – An Exciting White Blend from the Rhone Valley from Grape Experiences