Argentinian Malbec: An immigrant who gets the job done (#WorldWineTravel)

Every so often people ask, “What was the wine that ignited your passion for the grape?”

I wish I could recall a specific bottle, variety or vintage. Alas, no. I can say that before I got seriously into wine, I often would bring home a bottle of Malbec, the affordable, meaty and fruity red wine that put Argentina on the map.

Since those early days, I’ve acquired a palate for more subtle red wines. Yet, I couldn’t resist the Mendoza, Argentina, Malbec staring down at me from the shelf in Grocery Outlet. Nor could I resist the price.

It so happens the World Wine Travel topic for this month is South American “native” grapes. That word “native” is in quotes because, as you may know, Malbec is not actually native to Argentina. It’s an immigrant! To paraphrase Hamilton, “immigrants, [they] get the job done.” Malbec accounts for three quarters of Argentina’s vineyards today and thrives in the sunny, dry, high-altitude growing regions. It’s become the country’s signature red wine.

So how did Malbec take root in the New World?

This inky black-blue grape variety originated in Cahors, in Southwest France, and is grown elsewhere in France and throughout the world. For centuries, it was an ingredient in Bordeaux blends, though not so much today. Sadly, the Great Frost of 1956 wiped out most of the original Malbec vines in France. During the replanting that followed, a lot of the Bordeaux estate owners chose the more reliable Merlot over Malbec.

Meanwhile, Malbec became a shining star in its adopted home of Argentina. The exact date and site of the first Malbec plantings in Argentina is not certain, but it may have in Panquehua, north of Mendoza City, in 1865.

On the lower slopes of the Andes Mountains separating Chile and Argentina, Malbec develops a thick skin and concentrated flavor. Historically, the high mountains and isolation also provided a natural barrier to disease and pests, such as phylloxera. But Malbec’s history in Argentina has had its challenges, too. During the country’s national vine-pull scheme in the late 1980s, a large number of Malbec vines (including some of the South America’s oldest) were uprooted. Source

The producer and the region

Estate Finca Las Divas is owned by the Riglos company and situated 4,265 feet above sea level in Tupungato, the northernmost part of the Uco Valley in Mendoza. Of the total 178-acre estate, 94 acres are planted to vineyards in the well-draining, sand-over-clay alluvial soils. The estate produces only single-vineyard wines.

Two friends from Buenos Aires, Darío Werthein and Fabián Suffern, purchased this tract in Gualtallary, a subregion of Tupungato, in 2002, when it was nothing but a barren landscape. They named their fledgling wine business “Riglos” to honor the town where their ancestors settled when they arrived in Argentina, as immigrants, in the early 20^th century. Today, this area has become well regarded for full-bodied red wines, especially Malbec, and crisp Chardonnay.

In 2016, the company joined forces with Huarpe Wines, a winery located in Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo.

High altitude and Tupungato’s location in the rain shadow along the western foothills of the Andes ensure the vineyards receive intense sunlight and little rainfall. Lack of water stresses the vines, reducing vigor and yields and resulting in small, concentrated berries. Daily temperature ranges from warm summer days that ripen the grapes to cool nights that lock in acidity.

Most vineyards in this part of the world are drip-irrigated using Andean meltwater. Vineyard managers love drip irrigation because it gives them control over the amount of water that vines receive during the growing season.

Sources: wine-searcher, Riglos wines

The wine: 2020 Riglos Quinto Reserve Malbec, Single Vineyard, Valle de Uco, Mendoza

A tech sheet for this wine was not available.

My tasting notes: Dark ruby, almost purple in color with a magenta rim. Aromas of grilled meat, black cherry and plum, muddy earth and a hint of eucalyptus. High acidity attacks the palate upfront, followed by cherry, black currant, tobacco and black peppercorn. Oaky and tannic. Could benefit from additional aging in bottle. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 13.5%. Price: $8.99.

The pairing: Though I limit my meat intake these days, I knew this wine would need something meaty like a burger. I went with bison, which is leaner than beef, topped with a slice of cheddar for extra measure. Both the spouse and I remarked about how powerful this Malbec seems for having an alcohol level of 13.5%. This wine could easily overpower a meal, but it released its grip and relaxed when paired with the burger. Grilled meat (or a cheesy grilled portobello mushroom, if vegetarian) is the solution!

Here are the blog posts for World Wine Travel this month:

• 3 Wines That Sing Argentina Paired with Pork Tacos by Wine Predator…Gwendolyn Alley
• A Taste of Argentina: Chupín de Mariscos + a 2022 Torrontés from the Salta Region by Culinary Cam
• Argentinian Malbec: An immigrant who gets the job done by My Full Wine Glass
• Blue Cheese Sauce to put on that Steak you are Grilling Up to Pair with a Malbec Wine by A Day in the Life on the Farm
• Criolla, Bonarda, and the San Francisco Empanada by Wineivore