Ode to Oregon: Johan’s biodynamic expression of place (#WinePW)

Oregon beckons and I long to return – now more than ever.

From mountainous coastline to coniferous forests and wine-producing valleys, natural beauty is everywhere in Oregon.

My husband and I enjoyed our first taste of Oregon last November. Fortunately for us, the tourist season winds down shortly before Thanksgiving. Traffic was light as we meandered down the coast from historic Astoria at the mouth of the mighty Columbia River. One of our “must-do” stops was the iconic and awe-inspiring Haystack Rock at Cannon Beach.

After an overnight stay in sleepy Manzanilla, we continued south the next day to Pacific City and then veered east toward the Willamette Valley. We only had half a day. What were we thinking? Obviously, we didn’t realize the breadth of what Oregon has to offer. The short visit served only to whet our appetites for more of Oregon’s beauty and bounty.

Our visit heightened my appreciation for Oregon and its inhabitants, including the people who call it home and strive to steward the land and express its uniqueness through their wines. After our travels in Oregon, I’ve become further interested in tasting wines that are a true expression of this place – what wine specialists call “terroir.”

How do wine producers create terroir-driven wines? By treating grapevines holistically as existing within the totality of a biodiverse ecosystem that includes humans as well. By interfering as little as possible with natural cycles and processes. Essentially, by allowing the land to express itself.

Biodynamic and other sustainable farming practices help to achieve terroir-driven wines – that’s why I look for these wines whenever possible.

Johan Vineyards

A Demeter-certified Biodynamic producer, Johan Vineyards is located 60 miles south of Portland and 40 miles east of the Pacific Ocean at the mouth of the Van Duzer Corridor, an east-to-west-running gap in the Oregon Coast Range.

In the summer, the Willamette Valley acts as a heat sink that pulls maritime breezes from the coast to the valley through this gap. The maritime breezes have a moderating effect on temperatures that allows producers to grow and bottle cool-climate varieties such as Pinot Noir.

Soils in the Willamette Valley are also distinctive.

At the end of the last ice age, the Missoula Floods swept across eastern Washington to the Columbia River Gorge and down through the Willamette Valley. During this series of cataclysmic floods, the topsoil was constantly scoured and eroded away by the floodwaters. At the same time, floods carried shallow new topsoil made of various kinds of geologic debris and deposited this non-native soil in what are vineyards today.

So how does Johan express wine from this unique terroir? The winery focuses on the entire farm as one living organism:

“We farm to mimic the natural microbiological ecology of the soil where vines evolved. This produces vines more resistant to disease and creates a healthy natural immune system within the vine. This focus also increases the assimilation of nutrients naturally present in the soil, and creates a more efficient production of secondary metabolites.”

Their winemaking decisions are guided by both instinct and observation:

“Rather than striving for stylistic preference, we seek balance and energy in our wines. Our observations lead us to believe this energy exists in wines that are made from organic fruit sources combined with wild fermentations and minimal intervention… We feel that in order to achieve the full expression of site, it is imperative to allow the native yeast from the vineyard to guide our wines through both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. We use gentle production methods, employing light punch downs by foot [emphasis mine] in order to ensure lower extraction levels.”

The wine

*Please note that while the wines for this post were provided, opinions are my own.

2014 Johan Vineyards Nils Pinot Noir

Johan’s goal: “The Nils bottling was created out of an interest to capture a specific expression from our estate. The highest pitched East-facing slope produces the most powerful fruit on the property, leading to a more masculine expression of Pinot Noir from our site. This slope provides the dark fruit and earthy base notes of the Nils bottling. With the Nils we seek power and elegance, through balance and complexity.”

My tasting notes: Gorgeous ruby red color. Ripe cherry and black cherry on the nose, followed by sour cherry candy and strawberry on the palate. Light-bodied, silky smooth and muscular, like a lean athlete warming up at the track on a crisp spring morning. Medium acidity and medium-plus finish.

2016 Johan Vineyards Visdom Chardonnay

Johan’s goal: “The Visdom (wisdom in Norwegian) bottling is a study of secondary and tertiary aromatic development in Chardonnay. With extended aging prior to bottling we see a decline in fruit and an increase in vineyard expression. After maturation in barrel, the wine is intentionally bottled with a small amount of fine lees to allow the wine to stay in contact with the yeast, taking advantage of the complexities that develop with late stage yeast autolysis.”

My tasting notes: This unfiltered Chardonnay is straw-colored and cloudy. Pear and apple on the nose; granny smith apple and lemon pith on the palate with hints of yeastiness. Light to medium body. Mouth-puckering and assertively acidic on a medium to long finish. Reminded me of the city cider I sampled recently or Champagne without the bubbles.

The pairing

To properly match wines produced through wild fermentation and minimal intervention, I focused on wild Alaska salmon and this light lemon garlic pasta with salmon recipe that calls for good-quality olive oil and fresh garlic, lemon and basil.

This cooking style suits me as it fits with my own food ethic and philosophy. I prefer minimal use of fresh ingredients to enhance, rather than mask, whatever food has the starring role – in this dish, the salmon. I tossed the Brussel sprouts in olive oil, a dash of maple syrup and salt. I sprinkled smoked paprika on top to bring out a savory quality when roasted. A salad featuring some of the area’s first local produce – spinach and scallions from an organic Community-Supported Agriculture (CSA) farm – rounded out the meal.

On night one, we opened the Pinot Noir. On night two, we sampled the Chardonnay.

The fruit-forward Pinot Noir shined throughout this meal. The pasta with salmon seemed to bring out the strawberry notes of the Pinot on the palate. Both wine and food tasted fresh and alive.

The Chardonnay blended well with the pasta dish, as if it were another ingredient. The wine’s sharp acidity handled the lemony flavors of the dish, and an added helping of grated Parmesan cheese provided enough fat. This yeasty, cheese-loving Chardonnay was a perfect match for the feta-topped green salad, too. I’ll give this wine an apple and cheese plate the next time we meet.

Our Wine Pairing Weekend (#WinePW) group is chatting about Biodynamic wines of the Willamette Valley on Saturday, May 11, at 11 am ET. Please join us by using the hashtag. Here are the pairings:

• David of Cooking Chat has prepared “Salmon, Farro and Mushrooms with Winderlea Pinot Noir”
• Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camila is celebrating with “Simple Pleasures, A Birthday Cheeseboard, & Keeler Estate Vineyards’ 2017 Terracotta Amphorae Riesling”
• Jill of L’Occasion writes about “Peace, Bread, Land and Wine’: A Meal With Brooks Winery”
• Jennifer of Vino Travels will share “Biodynamic Wines of the Willamette Valley with King Estate”
• Lori of Dracaena Wines will present “Continuing the Biodynamic Legacy #WinePW”
• Jane from Always Ravenous pairs “Wild Alaskan Salmon with Herbed Ricotta and Oregon Pinot Noir”
• Pinny of Chinese Food and Wine Pairings combines “Biodynamic Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Noir from Johan Vineyards Plus Surf ‘n’ Turf Dinner”
• Linda of My Full Wine Glass shares “Ode to Oregon: Johan’s Biodynamic Expression of Place (#WinePW)”
• Gwendolyn Alley from Wine Predator will present “Our land is our life and our life is our wine” — Cooper Mountain Pinot Paired with Duck #WinePW
• Deana from Asian Test Kitchen has whipped up “Oregon Orange Wine Sparkles with Indian Curry”
• Wendy Klik A Day in the Life on the Farm discovers “Dammit!! These are some great wines from Willamette”
• Lauren Walsh of The Swirling Dervish will tempt us with “Pork Loin, Mushrooms, and Fiddlehead Ferns Meet Biodynamic Pinot Noir from Bergström Wines (#WinePW)”
• Martin of Enofylz Wine Blog brings us “A Taste of Cooper Mountain Vineyards at the Table #WinePW”
• Jeff of Food Wine Click is pairing “Biodynamic Willamette Valley with Brick House and Harissa Chicken”
• Payal of Keep the Peas is presenting “Living off the Land: King Estate Pinot Noir + Mushroom Pâté”
• Rupal of Syrah Queen is sharing “Maysara Winery – Iranian Immigrants Achieving The American Dream”
• Jade of Tasting Pour will share “Thai Green Curry Rockfish and Montinore Estate Gewurztraminer #WinePW”
• Nicole of Somm’s Table shares “A Hunt for a Biodynamic Williamette Valley Wine: Johan Vineyards Farmland Pinot Noir and Salmon”