Margaret River Shiraz kicks off virtual trip Down Under (#WorldWineTravel)

In the last couple of years, I’ve developed a real hankering for Syrah.

As so often happens, I became a fan of Syrah while tasting northern Rhône wines. Then I moved to Washington state, home of highly prized Syrah, and experienced the intense, savory wines made from Yakima Valley and Walla Walla Valley grapes.

All this love despite the pairing challenge for someone who eats meat infrequently.

Naturally, I was quite pleased when the World Wine Travel group of intrepid bloggers turned its focus this year to Australia and New Zealand because guess what? More Syrah! Except that Down Under, Syrah goes by “Shiraz,” a name I like because it rhymes with “pizzazz” and seems fitting for Australia’s exuberant spirit.

Our #WorldWineTravel group is kicking off this year’s virtual travels on Saturday, 1/22, by exploring the wines of Western Australia. You’re welcome to join us on Twitter beginning at 8 am PT/11 am ET. Simply follow the hashtag.

Focusing on Margaret River

If you look at a map of Australia, you’ll see a square-faced peninsula of land jutting into the Indian Ocean, about a three hours’ drive south of Perth. This is the southwestern corner of Western Australia, and on this coastal location is a highly respected wine region known as Margaret River.

This wine region is famous for having a more “European” wine style than its counterparts across the country. Margaret River winemakers have built their reputation on Cabernet Sauvignon (often blended with Merlot), grassy blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, citrusy Chardonnay, and, of course, Shiraz.

Despite being 10 degrees of latitude closer to the equator, the region’s temperate, maritime climate is often compared to that of Bordeaux. But Margaret River owes its distinct terroir in no small part to the ridge of gneiss and granite that runs north-south for the length of the peninsula. This ridge is covered by gravelly loam soils rich in aluminum and iron. Although not very high, the ridge provides shelter to vineyards immediately behind it and moderates coastal breezes that blow in from nearby beaches.

Source: Wine-searcher

The wine: 2015 Ashbrook Estate Shiraz, Margaret River
100% Shiraz

Located in Wilyabrup, Ashbrook Estate is one of the oldest wineries in the Margaret River region. It has been a family-owned and operated winery for over 40 years. All wines are made from handpicked, estate-grown fruit. Processing, winemaking, bottling and packaging are done on the premises.

The producers regard the climate north of Wilyabrup as ideal for producing a Rhône-style red. Shiraz was planted in 1998. The vines are trellised on a lyre system and cane-pruned to promote canopy/fruit balance, uniform sunlight penetration, eliminate green characters and allow for optimum flavor and tannin ripeness. Ashbrook takes an organic approach to grape growing by composting the vineyard liberally.

In 2015, the Margaret River experienced a colder than normal spring that adversely affected fruit set. There were no heat waves during the ripening period. Sunshine during the day and cool nights prevailed. Rain delayed picking of red grapes in the fall. All in all, these factors contributed to a smaller crop but intense wines.

The wine matured in 100% French oak barriques (26% new) for two years and then was stored in the producer’s underground, climate-controlled cellar for 18 months before release.  

My tasting notes: Deep, purplish red in color. Aromatic nose of blackberry, eucalyptus and evergreen forest with a lift from red cherry notes. Quite a kick of medium+ acidity on the palate upfront, followed by grilled meat and baking spices (cardamon, cinnamon and cloves) flavors, like a meat pie. Finishes strong with a hint of mint and shake of black pepper. Highly structured but tannins are well integrated. Alcohol: 14.8%. Price: $21.

Suggested pairings: Grilled meat would be an excellent choice for this wine, but unfortunately, we don’t have a grill right now. Meatball sandwiches were OK, but the best and most surprising pairing consisted of Shiitake mushrooms topped by shredded cheddar cheese – and it was meatless, too.

A side-by-side comparison

Because I enjoy side-by-side comparisons, I opened a 2018 L’Ecole Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, that I had in my wine cabinet. Walla Walla Valley is located in southeastern Washington state, an area known for cold winters and dry, warm summers. 2018 is considered an ideal vintage.

Grapes are from three blocks in L’Ecole’s highly acclaimed Seven Hills Vineyard, a warm parcel of land consisting of loess soil, a super-fine, pulverized granite that derives from ancient glacial activity. Each block was hand harvested. About 20% of the fruit was fermented whole cluster on stems for added tannin and structure, while the remainder was gently crushed into stainless-steel fermenters. Punched down by hand, the fruit was not pumped until it went into French oak barrels (40% new) with four rackings over 18 months. For more info, please read the full post.

My tasting notes: Deep ruby red in color. Blackberry, anise and evergreen forest aromas on the nose. Herbs (rosemary, sage, thyme) on the palate upfront, medium+ acidity and not as tannic or as full-bodied as the Margaret River Shiraz. Peppery, savory notes on a long finish. Alcohol: 15%. Price: $36. (Though I received the L’Ecole wine as a sample, opinions are my own.)

Which did I prefer? Ah, readers always want to know that. I appreciated the lift of the full-bodied Margaret River Shiraz and the herby, savory notes of the Walla Walla Syrah. I liked that both wines sent me to my spices drawer to do some sniffing. So much fun!

You can read more about Western Australian wines by checking out these posts:

• Cape Mentelle Two Vineyards Margaret River Shiraz and aTaste of Cast Iron Steak by Our Good Life
• Cool climate Happs Semillon from Margaret River by Avvinare
• Getting to Know Margaret River through Vasse Felix by Food Wine Click!
• Hooroo! Aussie Burgers with the Lot + Hope Estate 2015 The Ripper Shiraz by Culinary Adventures with Camilla
• Lamb and Lupin Kofte with a Vasse Felix Filius Cabernet by A Day in the Life on the Farm
• Make Your Own Pizza Night & Robert Oatley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon by Somm’s Table
• Margaret River Shiraz Kicks Off Virtual Trip Down Under by My Full Wine Glass
• Margaret River’s Vinaceous Voodoo Moon Malbec Makes You Howl for Blue Cheese Burgers on the Barbie by Wine Predator…Gwendolyn Alley
• Walsh & Sons – Next-Generation Wines from Margaret River by Crushed Grape Chronicles