Temperatures dipped into the teens this past week and deep snow settled on the ground. Winter had arrived – a time to slow down and savor the warmth and aromas of a meaty, slow-cooking ragu in the oven and the complexity of a long-aged Aglianico.
Why is Aglianico (“ay·glee·AA·nuh·kow”) the perfect wine for winter?
Aglianico rewards patience. This powerful red variety from southern Italy can take at least eight to 10 years before it’s ready to drink. Once open and decanted or aired sufficiently, the wine opens up slowly to reveal layers of flavor. Swirl, sniff, sip. Repeat. Sit with the wine and gaze out the window. Let go of the hurried world.
Wine experts place Aglianico among the top three Italian grapes, alongside Nebbiolo (Barolo and Barbaresco) in the north and Sangiovese (Brunello and Chianti Classico) in the central part of the country. Like Nebbiolo, high-acid Aglianico is known for tannin levels that soften over time to reveal dried fruit aromas and a savory spiciness.
To ring in the new year, the Italian Food, Wine and Travel (#ItalianFWT) bloggers are exploring and chatting about this defining grape of southern Italy. You’re invited to join us by following the hashtag on Twitter, beginning at 8 am PT/11 am ET on New Year’s Day, 1/1/22. Too early (or too late) for you to join us? Links to all the blog posts are listed below.
Aglianico from Taurasi
Aglianico is grown almost exclusively in the Campania and Basilicata regions of southern Italy. Because of its ability to withstand the heat of Mediterranean climates, the grape has also found a home recently in parts of California and Australia.
In Campania, the king of the grapes is Taurasi DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), a high-quality red wine appellation in the Avellino province, 30 miles northeast of Naples. Vineyards sit at high altitude (about 1,300 feet) in the Apennine hills of this inland area known historically as Irpinia.
The Taurisi appellation consists of 17 communes (towns). In general, soils consist primarily of calcareous clay, combined with elements of volcanic origin from historic eruptions of Mount Vesuvius, namely the massive Avellino eruption nearly 4,000 years ago. (Source: Wine Enthusiast)
A minimum of 85% Aglianico is required for the DOCG designation. The wine must be aged at least three years before release, including a year in wood. Taurasi Riserva has a mandatory aging period of four years, with 18 months in wood.
One of the biggest challenges in Taurasi is controlling both the acidity and the tannins.
“Aglianico has a lot of acidity and is very high in polyphenols, so there’s the risk of making big, excessive wines that are high in alcohol… Balance and elegance, on the other hand, are more difficult with Aglianico, because if you don’t have equilibrium between acidity, tannins and alcohol, you could get bitter sensations.” – Wine Enthusiast
The wine: 2013 Donnachiara Taurasi DOCG
100% Aglianico
Donnachiara is located near the town of Montefalcione in Avellino. Founded in 2005, the company boasts an almost all female management team. Ilaria Petitto is the current CEO. Her mother, Chiara, is the niece of Donna Chiara Mazzarelli Petitto, a noblewoman who was able to develop the family business during two world wars and while her husband, Antonio Petitto, was working as a doctor for the Italian Red Cross.
Hand-picked, the grapes for this wine are pressed and then the juice is placed into stainless steel tank at controlled temperature. Maturation continues on the skins for 15 days. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barriques.
My tasting notes: Ruby red with violent hues. Boysenberry, ripe cherry, chocolate and roses all vie for dominance on the nose. Palate flavors open on a high-acid, sour cherry note that segues into an earthy minerality. But wait, the fun has only just begun. Spicy, tongue-tingling black licorice takes over and warms the entire mouth. Then it’s back to sour cherry and hints of cinnamon, cedar and cracked pepper on a long, fiery finish that goes on and on. Still a little grippy at nearly nine years old, this wine could benefit from a few more years of aging. Alcohol: 13.5% but seems like more. Retail price: $37.99, on sale at Total Wine & More before the holidays for $30.39.
Suggested pairings: What to pair with a wine this intense? First up was a classic beef and cheese lasagna. Together, the wine and food were complementary but not “wow.” Later in the week, I prepared the lamb and beef ragu over noodles (using half lamb and half beef stew meat). This dish was richer than lasagna and stood up better to the Taurasi. Barbecued or grilled meats would work well, too.
Enjoy the rest of the posts (below). Hope your new year is happy, healthy and filled with moments to slow down and savor!
- A Movie Set in Acerenza and Tumacë Me Tulë + Azienda Bisceglia Aglianico del Vulture Gudarra 2015 by Culinary Adventures with Camilla
- Enjoying Aglianico From the Vine with Pizza Montanara by A Day in the Life on the Farm
- From the Vine: Devouring Pizza, Donnachiara Aglianico Wine, and the Movie by Our Good Life
- How A Glorious Past Can Reinvent The Future in Basilicata by Grapevine Adventures
- Mila Vuolo’s Passion for Aglianico in Colli di Salerno IGT by Wine Predator…Gwendolyn Alley
- New Year Nibbles + an Organic PetNat Aglianico by Wineivore
- Organic Aglianico from Ciro Picariello by Avvinare
- Pairing Wine and a Movie: “From The Vine”and 2012 I Favati Cretarossa + Salsicce e Fagioli by ENOFYLZ Wine Blog
- Why Aglianico Rules Among Grapes of Southern Italy by My Full Wine Glass
- Why Aren’t you Drinking More Aglianico? by Vino Travels
I’m glad you made the comment about lasagne not being “wow” with this wine. I had a similar wine, but it was wonderful with the pizza, probably because the wine’s overall quality was less than yours. Still, a very good wine!
Happy New Year Linda. Wow you are having cold temperatures. That wine is perfect for days like that. You dish looks lovely and I am sure it was enjoyable. Yes, let’s hope we can all slow down and look out the window more this year. Cheers to you, Susannah
That ragu looks amazingly rich and delicious. Perhaps a smoky cheese for the lasagna would have helped the pairing?
A great overview of Taurasi DOCG, and I love your tasting notes. It feels like you took your own advise and did it in an unhurried way as the wine opened up. Brava!
Those tasting notes are just mouthwatering! So interesting that the Taurasi needs to balance the tannins and acid, and maybe that’s a good thing? Gosh, 9 years and it still needs time, kind of like big cab! Thanks for the very informative post!
I read this honestly at the best time. I was going to make a pot roast today as we’re supposed to get up to 2 feet of snow, but I also have some stew beef I have to cook and my husband loves noodles. For the win!