Saying thanks for wine community with Co Dinn Syrah

‘Tis the season of thanksgiving – a time to take stock and express gratitude through words, actions and special holiday gatherings.

Like you, I’m thankful for many things. But speaking as a wine blogger, in particular, I’m especially grateful to belong to a community of writers and consumers who value wine and the people who bring it to our tables. That’s why, when I hit 1,000 Twitter followers a couple of weeks ago, I decided to do two things to express my gratitude and celebrate this milestone:

1. Donating to the Washington Wine Industry Foundation, a nonprofit devoted to “strengthening the future of Washington’s wine industry by advancing education, research, and leadership.”
2. Opening a Syrah I brought home last June from Co Dinn Cellars in Washington’s Yakima Valley. Co Dinn is a former Texan who set up shop in the unassuming small city of Sunnyside, Washington. His passion for the purity of Yakima Valley grapes is evident in the intense wines he produces from the region’s best vineyards.

As you can see, I’ve chosen to celebrate Washington in this post as well. This is where I now live and write. I’m proud – and thankful – to call this amazing and beautiful state my home.

Co Dinn Cellars

Co Dinn grew up in Texas and tried his hand in the oil business in the mid-‘80s (it was “horrible”) before realizing his true calling. After earning a master’s degree from UC Davis and notching some experience in Napa Valley, he headed to Washington in 1996 and was “floored” by the quality of the wines. He worked as a winemaker over 20 vintages. By 2013, he was ready for a new challenge.

Jump to 2015, when the Port of Sunnyside, the City of Sunnyside and Yakima County teamed up with Co Dinn to convert the Art Deco-inspired Sunnyside Water Department building into a modern winery and tasting room. The 1930 building, former home to the city’s two water wells as well as the vehicle maintenance department, had been boarded up and used for storage.

This now industrial-chic winery is where Co and our entourage, including Kerry Shiels of DuBrul Vineyards and neighboring Côte Bonneville winery, met to taste wines. (Check out my profile of Kerry to learn more about her.)

Co Dinn’s philosophy is three-fold:

1. Plant a flag – He has chosen to live and make wines in the Yakima Valley. “Focus is one of the most important things in winemaking.”
2. Choose singular vineyards and showcase them – He studies each site: the soil, the slope, the heat accumulation, the elevation. “I like to go to the vineyard and say, ‘What can I do with this?’”
3. Respect tradition and be open to innovation – “I strive for classically styled wines while improving their consistency and quality using modern knowledge.” Like adopting screwcaps for his bottle closures. “I found it is the best choice for wine preservation and bottle-to-bottle uniformity for all wines.

2016 Co Dinn Syrah Elephant Mountain Vineyard Block 5, Rattlesnake Hills

Earlier in the day, we had visited Joe Hattrup’s Elephant Mountain vineyards high in the Rattlesnake Hills AVA of the Yakima Valley. Starting at 1,300 feet and topping out at 1,466 feet of gentle, southern-facing slopes, the vineyards are known for red grapes with varietal intensity, deep color and naturally good pH balance. All of that leads to aromatic, high-acid wines. (Check out my post on Yakima Valley vineyards.)

Elevation and proximity to the Cascade foothills, 30 miles to the west, moderates summer heat and extends the growing season. Planted in 2005, this particular clone of Syrah is mature and deep-rooted, ripens later than others, and is inky and intense. Soils consist of a two-foot layer of loess over fractured basalt.

My tasting notes: Inky, deep ruby/purple in color. Nose is like a breath of fresh air, with a woodsy blend of blackberry and black licorice. Medium+ acidity on the palate upfront, silky tannins and savory blackberry and black cherry notes ending in a long, peppery finish. Alcohol: 14.7%. Price: $50. Wine is produced in limited quantities. You can order through the winery.

Suggested pairings: Living in the Pacific Northwest means learning to embrace chilly, wet fall weather. What other choice is there? One sure antidote to the chill is a comfort food like pumpkin risotto. This Seattle Times recipe calls for kabocha, or another dense, sweet pumpkin. Kabocha is a pretty fall addition to markets and works perfectly, as advertised, in this recipe. The spouse and I enjoyed this creamy dish with a Rotisserie chicken topped with meaty Oyster mushrooms sautéed in butter and a side of wilted spinach. Co Dinn’s Syrah has the balanced acid and aromatics to pair compatibly with this meal. Substitute turkey for the chicken, add stuffing and potatoes, and voilá –you’ve got Thanksgiving.

What are you thankful for this holiday season? What special wine will be part of your holiday celebration this year? Hope it’s delicious and meaningful!