Savoie wine – a non-skier’s reason to visit the French Alps (#WinePW)

After spending some virtual time in Italy’s Valle d’Aosta, I’ve crossed the border to explore the crisp alpine wines of neighboring Savoie, France.

If I were traveling by car, the journey would take about 2 ½ hours – or longer, because I’d want to stop frequently to drink in the stunning mountain scenery. At this time of year, I’d see a fair number of roof racks loaded with skis. Some of the world’s best-known slopes beckon skiers to this area. But for a non-skier like me, wine is the draw.

Thanks to Jill at L’Occasion, I was able to savor a couple of Savoie wines without leaving home. I was among a group of Wine Pairing Weekend (#WinePW) bloggers who received samples.

(Please note that while the wines for this post were provided, opinions are my own.)

You’re invited to join us for a Twitter chat about Savoie wines on Saturday, Feb. 8, starting at 11 ET. Simply follow the #WinePW hashtag.

I’m not going to lie – while grateful for these wines, I wish I were visiting this region in person. Maybe someday. That’s the thing about studying and tasting wine – its gets you longing for new places and experiences, right?

Savoie facts

Jill shares facts about Savoie in her invitation post. I’ve added some info, too:

• Savoie is located in eastern France, south of Lake Geneva in a mountainous area on the Swiss border.
• Savoie Wines represent just 0.55% of all appellated (geographically named) French wines.
• 20+ grape varieties grow here in four French departments: Savoy, Haute-Savoie, the Isère and Ain.
• 70% of Savoie production is white wine, 20% is red and the remaining 10% is split between rosé and sparkling (compared with Valle d’Aosta where reds dominate).
• In Savoie, there are 27 vineyards certified organic or in conversion to organic.
• There are four AOPs (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) in Savoie: Seyssel, Crépy, Savoy, and Roussette de Savoie.

Like Valle d’Aosta, the Savoie region has a cold continental climate but abundant sunshine. Most of the vineyards are planted on steep slopes for maximum sun exposure. Limestone or clay-limestone soils store heat during the day and reflect it back onto the vines at night. Towering mountains protect the region from northwesterly weather systems, and the Bourget and Geneva lakes, as well as the upper Rhône river, further moderate the climate.

Un peu histoire

Savoie (Savoy) went back and forth between France and Italy before ultimately becoming part of France.

During the 11^th to 14^th centuries, the House of Savoy ruled over the feudal territory – which also included Valle d’Aosta – in what is now France, Italy, and Switzerland.

France annexed the territory in 1792 during its First Republic, before returning it to the Kingdom of Sardinia (Italy) in 1815. More than four decades later, during the Second Republic, Napoleon brokered a political deal with the Sardinian king as part of the final steps toward unification of Italy. The king solidified his dynasty by retaining Piedmont and Ligura. He also got Valle d’Aosta in the bargain. Savoie landed back in France.

Wines and pairings

2018 Pierre et Fils Savoie Apremont AOP – 100% Jacquère
First stop on my cross-border jaunt is the tiny village of Apremont, just south of the city of Chambéry, to taste a white wine from a rather obscure grape called “Jacquère.”

Few wine drinkers outside France know of Jacquère, one of the 101 obscure grapes mentioned by Jason Wilson in his book, Godforsaken Grapes: A Slightly Tipsy Journey Through the World of Strange, Obscure, and Underappreciated Wine. In Apremont and neighboring Abymes, this tightly clustered, thick-skinned indigenous grape is widely grown. To carry the Apremont name, wines made from this grape must be at least 80% Jacquère, with Aligoté, Altesse, Chardonnay and Marsanne making up the rest.

Apremont means “bitter mountain,” a clue that something went sorely amiss in this otherwise idyllic corner of the world.

The name-giving tragedy occurred during the mid-13^th century, when a Mont Granier landslide devastated Apremont and Abymes. Left behind was a three-mile trail of limestone rubble. In the 18^th century, winemakers began to plant east-facing vineyards on this well-draining soil. By catching the rising sun, grapes ripen slowly and develop good varietal character while still retaining acidity. Ripened fruit plus good acidity equals a balanced wine.

Jean Pierre et Fils, the seventh generation producer of this particular Apremont, traces its lineage to 1853. Over time, the family expanded its estate to almost 146 acres today. Their Jacquère vines are planted on clay-limestone soil. Manually harvested, the grapes are settled in cold temperatures and fermented for three weeks.

My tasting notes: Pale straw, almost white in color. A nose full of ripe pear and white blossoms, followed by a tropical palate and a lemon/lemon pith, medium+ finish. Medium+ acidity. Surprisingly soft mouthfeel and medium body. Alcohol: 11.5%. Average price: $12.

The pairing: This wine had just the right weight to blend seamlessly with seared scallops, and had the freshness and acidity to complement a zesty shrimp cocktail. The wine also played nicely alongside kale quinoa salad made with feta cheese, walnuts, and a lemony garlic dressing.

2018 Eugene Carrel & Fils Rosé – Gamay (80%) and Mondeuse (20%)
My armchair travels take me next to Jongieux on the left bank of the Rhône, about 40 miles southwest of Geneva, and a visit to Carrel & Fils.

This sixth generation family has tended the land since 1830. But winemaking was not the main activity until the 1970s. Before then, the Carrels were mainly subsistence farmers. Wine grapes now cover 60 acres of limestone soil on the south/southwest-facing slopes of Mont du Chat and steep slopes of Mont de la Charvaz, at an average altitude of almost 1,000 feet. Managing these steep vineyards is a challenge. The family plants grasses to reduce erosion. Also, they limit the use of insecticides and herbicides in the vineyards.

Despite its proximity to the Swiss Alps, the area has a surprisingly warm climate because it is surrounded by water and gets two to three more hours of sun than any other area in the Savoie.

If you’ve tasted Beaujolais, you know the main grape in this rosé – Gamay. But Mondeuse? Well, that’s another one of those obscure indigenous varieties!

My tasting notes: Salmon in color. A nose bursting with strawberry, raspberry, and mineral aromas with a hint of orange peel. On the palate, I get a touch of herbs and a medium+, lemony finish. Light body. Zingy, medium+ acidity. Alcohol: 12.5%. Average price: $12.

The pairing: For this pairing, I was inspired by Alpine Cooking: Recipes and Stories from Europe’s Grand Mountaintops by acclaimed food writer Meredith Erickson. Thanks to Jill, I received a digital review copy of this gorgeous new book. Alpine Cooking showcases the regional alpine cuisine of Italy, Austria, Switzerland, and France. Erickson spent seven years traveling through the Alps to create this 350-page book. What I like about this book is its organization by country and then by easy-to-difficult recipes, like ski trails. Clever!

I prepared a version of Erickson’s crayfish with tarragon mayonnaise, a French delicacy, except I substituted shrimp for the crayfish and followed this Epicurious recipe for the dressing. In the Italy section of the book, I spied a blue trout recipe that inspired me to poach trout in chicken broth, lemons and leeks via this super-simple, super-healthy recipe. The trout was a match for the wine’s acidity, but the fat in the tarragon mayonnaise mellowed the high-acid rosé and enhanced its fruitiness. Beautiful!

Check out what all the #WinePW bloggers (below) have to say and if you’re reading this in time, hope you will join the chat on Saturday, Feb. 8. Cheers!

• Jeff at Food Wine Click! has us Warm Up by the Fireplace with Raclette and Vins de Savoie.
• Rupal the Syrah Queen pairs Savoie Wines and Tartiflette –Mountain Wines with Mountain Fare.
• Nicole at Somm’s Table is Cooking to the Wine: Altesse Roussette de Bugey Montagnieu with Crab and Veggie Gratin.
• Cindy at Grape Experiences offers A Quintessential Pairing:Wines from Savoie and Savory Herbed Cheese Fondue.
• Liz from What’s In that Bottle shouts about Alpine Wine Alert: Wines from France’s Savoie Region are Awesome.
• Pinny from Chinese Food & Wine Pairings shares André et Michel Quenard Gamay from Savoie and Roasted Chicken Drizzled with Ginger Scallion Infused Oil.
• Gwen at Wine Predator is making Chicken and Savoie for Sweethearts, Fondue for Friends.
• Susannah at Avvinare shares Brie and Bacon Quiche With Vin de Savoie Wine.
• Jane from Always Ravenous has Raclette Paired with Savoie Wines.
• Wendy from A Day In the Life on the Farm goes on A Gastronomic Visit to Savoie.
• Terri at Our Good Life pairs Vin de Savoie and Seafood Pasta with Lemon Butter Sauce.
• David from Cooking Chat makes Potato Bacon Skillet Casserole –Tartiflette Inspired Recipe for Savoie Wine.
• Camilla from Culinary Adventures With Camilla presents A Taste of #vindesavoie: Älpermakkaronen+ 2018 JP & JF Quenard Vin de Savoie Chignin.
• Linda at My Full Wine Glass gets into Savoie wine – a non-skier’s reason to visit the French Alps.
• Jen at Vino Travels pairs Garlic Buttered Shrimp over Polenta with the Wines of Savoie.
• And host Jill at L’Occasion presents An Interview With Author Wink Lorch + A Savoie Wine Pairing.