5 things that might surprise you about Rías Baixas, home of Albariño (#WorldWineTravel)

I thought I knew Albariño, the crisp signature white wine from the Rías Baixas (pronounced “REE-ahs BI-shas”) region of Galicia, on the northwest coast of Spain. But then I hopped on a virtual bus tour that stopped at three wineries in the region. Whoa – was I surprised!

On Saturday 4/24, I’m hosting as the World Wine Travel group of intrepid bloggers continues its journey throughout Spain with a visit to Rías Baixas and all of Galicia, otherwise known as “Green Spain.” Hope you can join us for the Twitter chat beginning at 8 am PT/11 am ET. Simply follow the #WorldWineTravel hashtag.

Gregory+Vine, which represents the Rías Baixas wine region, was gracious enough to sponsor a virtual press trip for our group. The trip was led by Rick Fisher, Spanish programs director at the Wine Scholar Guild, and co-hosted by the Consejo Regulador de la Denominación de Origen Rías Baixas, the regulating agency for DO Rías Baixas wines.

This was no ordinary virtual wine tasting. Guided by Rick, we watched videotaped interviews with winery representatives and winemakers who explained the nuances of geography, climate, and soil in their particular subregions and vineyards. What a learning experience!

In addition to organizing this deep dive into the region, Gregory+Vine sent samples of three wines in a box designed to look like a suitcase and complete with a plane “ticket” and luggage strap. Many thanks to everyone for the care and planning that went into this creative virtual trip.

Please note that while the wines for this post were provided, opinions are my own.

Grab your suitcase – we’re leaving!

They say, “either you’re on the bus or you’re off the bus.” I guarantee you: If someone offers you a tour of Rías Baixas, you want to be on the bus. For this post, I’m focusing solely on Rías Baixas. Please read my invitation post for a summary of all Galician wine regions.

Rías Baixas, Galician for “lower estuaries,” is home to 5,500 growers, 179 wineries, and almost 1,000 acres of vineyards. Vines are planted from sea level to an elevation of 1,000 feet. Soils are mostly granitic with mineral-rich, alluvial topsoil and an iron-rich, gravelly and sandy topsoil called Xabre (“sha-bree”).

Rías Baixas has five subregions:

• Val do Salnés – Birthplace of Albariño. Produces 63.8% of the region’s wines.
• Condado do Tea – Southern part of Rías Baixas bordering Portugal. Warmest and most continental climate. Produces 21.7%.
• Rosal – Right bank of Miño River bordering Portugal, 11% of production.
• Ribeira do Ulla – Newest subregion, 3.3% of production.
• Soutomaior – Only produces 100% Albariño, 2% of production.

In the maritime climate of Rías Baixas, keeping grapes dry and preventing mildew are top priorities. Many of the wineries use parras – pergola systems built on huge granite columns – to enhance sunlight exposure and airflow. With these systems, everything has to be hand harvested. A few other training systems are used, too.

5 surprises about Rías Baixas

1. This is a region of small vineyard plots. Vineyard plots have been handed down through the generations. As families sub-divided their land, they passed on smaller and smaller plots to descendants. Similar to the Burgundy region of France, right? Today, the Rías Baixas region consists of 21,825 vineyard plots.
2. Women play a major role in the labor force. Historically, men were out at sea for weeks on end. Women were needed to handle duties back on shore. Today, women comprise more than 50% of winemakers in this region and also play a major role in the agriculture, seafood, and shellfish industries. Not only do they harvest grapes and dig for shellfish, but they also work tough jobs in canneries and as net makers.
3. Albariño has a range of expressions. I was surprised by the differences among these three Albariño samples. The first was crisp, the second fruity and round, and the final one was grassy, flowery, and savory. Geography, climate, and soil – key elements of terroir – vary among the Rías Baixas subregions, and winemakers use a variety of vessels from concrete eggs to stainless-steel tanks to oak barrels for fermentation.
4. Six white grapes and seven reds are permitted. While 99% of all Rías Baixas wine is white, and Albariño represents 96% of plantings, 12 other grape varieties are allowed in DO Rías Baixas. Whites include Albariño, Treixadura, Loureiro, Caíño Blanco, Torrontés, and Godello. They may be used in Albariño blends everywhere in Rías Baixas, except Soutomaior, and are produced as single varietals. Permitted reds are Sousón, Espadeiro, Caíño Tinto, Loureira Tinta, Mencía, Brancellao, and Pedral. I hear the reds of this region are exceptional.
5. There are eight Rías Baixas wine types. Far from a one-size-fits-all wine region, Rías Baixas boasts eight wine types, including sparkling, rosé, and barrel-aged wines. Winemakers use French, American, and Galician oak barrels. Galician oak – who knew?

One recurring theme, however, was no surprise: Global warming is having an impact on the region. Since 2003, winemakers and vineyard managers have been noticing riper fruit, higher alcohol levels, and more mature aromas. The biggest threat is to the region’s traditionally crisp Albariño and other white grapes. Water and irrigation management are being used to mitigate the effects, and newer vineyards are being planted at higher altitudes.

3 distinct styles of Albariño

2019 Martín Códax Albariño, Rías Baixas DO
100% Albariño
One of largest producers in Rías Baixas, Martín Códax manages more than 2,600 small plots on approximately 1,200 acres in the Val do Salnés (“salt flats”) subregion. More than 600 families are involved in the cooperative. Vineyards are 100% open to the sea, and weather can become quite stormy. With such a large number of small plots, remote-sensing (e.g., drone) technology is key to managing the vineyards effectively.

• My tasting notes: Pale gold in color. Aromas of peach, apricot, and grapefruit. “Wow” is what I wrote to describe the grapefruit (pith and all), lemon zest, minerality, and salinity on the palate. High acidity. Long finish. Alcohol: 12.5%. Classic Albariño.

2020 Fillaboa Albariño, Rías Baixas DO
100% Albariño
As the story goes, Fillaboa was founded in 1898 by a count who left his best estate to his only “good daughter” – Fillaboa in Galician. Located in the Condado do Tea subregion, the approximately 183-acre estate lies on rolling slopes bordering the Tea and Miño rivers along the border with Portugal. Summers are warm and dry – drier than in previous years due to global warming. After fermentation in stainless steel at a low temperature with native yeast, the wine spends six months aging on the lees (spent yeast cells).

• My tasting notes: Gold in color. Fruity aromas of peach and pineapple. A rounded mouthfeel on the palate with slowly developing lemon notes and medium+ acidity. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 13%. A versatile Albariño for food pairing.

2020 Robaliño Albariño, Rías Baixas DO
100% Albariño
Also located in the Condado do Tea subregion, Robaliño is far from the sea and surrounded by mountains that protect vineyards from storms. Robaliño is a collection of small plots planted to both white and red varieties. In addition to this 100% Albariño, the winery makes an Albariño blend. Their mission is to adhere to tradition and recover local varieties.

• My tasting notes: Pale gold in color. Pear, pineapple, and late-summer aromas of hay and dried flowers. Tangy, lemony-lime palate with a savory quality that emerges with food.  Medium+ acidity. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 12.5%. Similar to Sauvignon Blanc.

2 pairings for these 3 wines

Meal #1: Paella and roasted beet salad
If you’re looking to save a few dollars, Martha Stewart’s easy paella calls for paprika and turmeric instead of saffron. I added fire-roasted diced tomatoes with chilis to kick up the heat. On the side, we had a roasted beet salad with honey mustard dressing from Rías Baixas Wines. Fruity and round, the Fillaboa Albariño paired best with the paella. The wine didn’t compete with the spices and wasn’t opposed to a touch of honey in the salad dressing. The savory Robaliño came in second place.

Meal #2: Poached rainbow trout, fries, beet salad
I substituted rainbow trout for sole in this Rías Baixas recipe and instead of baking the fillets, I poached them in Albariño sauce. Light and flaky with a squeeze of lime, the fish paired especially well with the crisp Martín Códax Albariño. The Robaliño took second place again.

A total of 18 bloggers are sharing their thoughts this month. Please check out what they have to say and join us for the chat!

• Steve at Children of the Grape shares Troubadours, Love, and Wine.
• Terri at Our Good Life discusses One Grape: Three Unique Experiences with Albarino.
• Andrea at The Quirky Cork writes about Albariño and Bacon: A Love Affair.
• Lynn at Savor the Harvest recommends A Region and Wine You Must Explore: Rias Baixas and Albariño.
• Jeff from Food Wine Click! shares A Tale of Two Rias Baixas Albarinos.
• Wendy from A Day in the Life on the Farm talks about My Virtual Trip to Rias Baixas.
• Allison and Chris at ADVineTURES discuss The White Wines of Rias Baixas.
• Nicole from Somm’s Table shares It’s Raining Rias Baixas.
• Camilla at Culinary Adventures with Camilla pairs Sopa de Cebolla + 2020 Fillaboa Albariño.
• Martin from ENOFYLZ Wine Blog talks about Bodegas Zarate; Setting the Standard for Rias Baixas Albarino – Then and Now.
• David at Cooking Chat pairs Pan Seared Sea Bass with Albariño.
• Jennifer at Vino Travels shares Refresh Your Palate with Rias Baixas Albarino.
• Melanie from Wining with Mel takes a Wine Romp Through Rias Baixas in Galicia, Spain.
• Rupal from Syrah Queen has Your Passport To Rias Baixas – Explore Three Incredible Albarinos.
• Susannah at Avvinare posts Rias Baixas – Green Spain Entices.
• Gwendolyn from Wine Predator shares From California’s Camino Real to Galicia’s Camino de Santiago: All Aboard for Albariño!
• Liz at What’s In That Bottle? says Pack Your Bags: We’re off to Rias Baixas for an Albariño Adventure.
• Linda, your host, from My Full Wine Glass offers 5 Things that Might Surprise You About Rías Baixas, Home of Albariño.