What’s in a label? Separating the certified Biodynamic wine from the wannabees (#WinePW)

I’m standing in a Pennsylvania state liquor store staring at the one stack of shelves devoted exclusively to sustainably grown wine – organic, biodynamic, clean and green.

My mission is to write about a biodynamic wine, preferably certified, for this month’s Wine Pairing Weekend (#WinePW) theme of “Biodynamic Wines of the World.” Several labels boast the wines are “biodynamic,” but I find only one in this particular store, in this particular state, that has the Demeter trademark to indicate it is certified biodynamic. I purchase the wine and leave the store feeling a tad perplexed.

What’s up with certification, I’m wondering. Why aren’t more producers certified, and if they are, why aren’t more of these wines readily available? And what’s with the “wannabees” (my term for non-certified producers promoting biodynamic practices and values)?

First, a little history

Biodynamic agriculture was founded in 1924 by German scientist and philosopher Dr. Rudolf Steiner, one of the first public figures to question the long-term negative impact of industrial agriculture.

By the late 19th century, the industrial revolution was well underway, and people were moving from farms to cities to work in factories. Farming was becoming industrialized, too, through the growing availability of chemicals and synthetic fertilizers. 

When their crops began to suffer, a group of concerned European farmers approached Steiner for advice. He responded with a series of lectures that he referred to as “The Spiritual Foundations for the Renewal of Agriculture.”

“Steiner suggested that farms should be thought of as living organisms, not factories: self-contained and self-sustaining, responsible for creating and maintaining their own individual health and vitality.” – Demeter Association, Inc.

Demeter standards

Demeter International, abroad, and Demeter USA are the certifying bodies for Biodynamic wine grapes and other farm produce, and own the Demeter and Biodynamic trademarks. Nationally recognized organic farming certification is a pre-requisite for Demeter certification.  

There are several different Demeter USA standards:

• Biodynamic® wine grapes covers production of the grapes only, not the wine.
• Made with Biodynamic® Grapes is a wine made with 100% Demeter USA-certified Biodynamic wine grapes. Wines may contain up to 100ppm sulfites, and the grapes can come from more than one Demeter-certified vineyard. Wines must be made in a Demeter-certified Biodynamic winery. The “Made with Biodynamic® grapes” category also permits limited sugar and acidity adjustments and a possible variance allowing the addition of a neutral yeast strain in cases of a documented stuck fermentation. 
• Biodynamic® Wine refers to a 100% estate-grown wine made from 100% Demeter-certified biodynamic grapes from one estate vineyard. Wines must be fermented with native yeasts and may contain up to 100ppm sulfites. No other additives are permitted. The wines must be made in a Demeter-certified Biodynamic winery. 

Biodynamic farming

Biodynamic farming goes beyond prohibitions against synthetic chemical fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides and fungicides. Farmers use non-chemical field sprays and specially prepared preparations made from plants, minerals and composted animal manures.

“Emphasis is on the generation of farm inputs out of the living dynamics of the farm itself, rather than being imported from the outside.  Dependence on imported materials for fertility and pest control is reduced. Water conservation is considered. Farms are required to maintain at least 10% of total acreage as a biodiversity set-aside.” – Demeter Association, Inc.

Also – and this is the controversial part – Biodynamic farmers apply these preparations according to celestial cycles. If you care about the planet but this sounds too woo-woo for you, please read this beautifully written article by Italian winemaker Katia Nussbaum on reframing Biodynamic farming for the 21^st century.   

The pairing

Frey Vineyards is America’s first organic and Biodynamic winery. Frey wines are also vegan, gluten free, and contain no added sulfites.

Third-generation and family-owned, the winery is located at the headwaters of the Russian River in Redwood Valley, Mendocino County, California. Ninety percent of the land is unspoiled natural habitat with a diverse mix of native plants and animals.

The 2013 Frey Vineyards Certified Biodynamic Syrah is deep red with purple around the edges. Fresh and fruity aroma of fig, blackberry, and anise on the nose prevails, with supple tannins and a medium-long finish hinting of cloves and tobacco.

Who says you can’t pair red wine and chicken? Savory chicken with mushroom sauce by Cooking Light was perfect for this Syrah. I used free-range chicken (of, course) and breaded the chicken cutlets by dipping them first in flour, then egg, and then bread crumbs. This extra step locks in the juiciness. Served over mashed potatoes (organic, of course) and roasted organic carrots and Brussel sprouts (for extra umami).

By the way, Demeter states it is experiencing a “groundswell” of interest in certification, with an average yearly growth of more than 15%. And… I did end up purchasing a couple of the biodynamic wannabees. We’ll see what research turns up!

On Saturday, April 13, at 11 am ET, our group of bloggers will be chatting about biodynamic wines. To join us, simply follow the hashtag #WinePW, and make sure to add it to your tweets.

Here are the other bloggers:

• Jeff Burrows: “Biodynamics in the Dolomites with Azienda Agricola Foradori” FoodWineClick
• Nancy Brazil: “Celebrating Biodynamic Viticulture with Montinore Estate Pinot Noir ” Pull That Cork
• Nicole Ruiz Hudson: “Organic/Biodynamic/Natural: WTF Does It All Mean ?????” Somms Table
• David Crowley: “Beef and Lamb Tagine with a Special Wine from Lebanon” Cooking Chat
• Martin Redmond: “Beautiful Biodynamic Bubbles: Quartz Reef Méthode Traditionelle Brut” ENOFYLZ
• Pinny Tam: ”A Wine Lover’s Game Plan in Drinking Well (Biodynamic/Organic/Vegan Wines & Supplements)! #WinePW” in Chinese Food and Wine Pairing
• Lauren Walsh: “A Bottle of Red; A Bottle of White – Montinore Estate Biodynamic Wines with Dinner Tonight” The Swirling Dervish
• Wendy Klik: “Wine for Earth Day” A Day of a Life on A Farm
• Gwendolyn Alley: “Going Biodynamic during Earth Month with Narrow Gate and Beaver Creek” Wine Predator
• Jill Barth: “Bodegas Krontiras: A Biodynamic Expression of Mendoza” L’Occasion
• Camilla Mann: “Seabass Agli Agrumi + Wine from America’s First Demeter-Certified Biodynamic Winery” Culinary Adventures with Camilla